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f the more than 1,000 with love that, had these women
books related to food pub- survived, would have been passed
lished in the United States on to their daughters. Some of the
this year, the following courageous, affectionate letters
from Mina in Terezin to her fam-
three are eminently worthy.
The first title, In Memory's ily, especially to her grandson Pe-
Kitchen: A Legacy from the ter (renamed David in Israel) are
Women of Terezin, is not intend- heart-wrenching.
Mina died in Terezin on Yom
ed as a cookbook at all. Nonethe-
less, it is essential reading no Kippur 1944. Before her death,
matter what your religious pref- she entrusted a package of poems,
erence. It demonstrates the pow- photographs and the book to a
erful impact of food and family, friend, requesting that he get it
even when deprived of both, amid to her daughter, Anny Stern, who
the most heinous war of all times. was living in Palestine. In In
In Memory's Kitchen is published Memory's Kitchen, the journey to
by Jason Aronson ($25, available its final destination and publica-
from Borders and Barnes & No- tion by the Holocaust Museum is
documented in
ble bookstores or
compelling de-
from the U.S.
tail.
Holocaust Memo-
The force and
rial Museum,
editor
behind the
Washington,
project is award-
D.C.)
winning journal-
Picking up this
ist Cara de Silva.
book with its
A biographical
somber gray and
sketch of Mina
black cover is like
Pachter is writ-
touching hot
ten by her grand-
coals. It is a sear-
son, David Stem,
ing voice from the
who at 10 years
Holocaust. But it
old escaped to
is strangely up-
Palestine
with
lifting because it
his
mother.
depicts the mirac-
The transla-
ulous will of the
tor,
Bianca
human spirit to
Steiner
Brown,
live, to remember
is herself a survivor of Terezin. "I
and to hope.
In the midst of brutality and wasn't even 20 when we were de-
starvation, under circumstances ported," she recalled. "Only my
beyond our comprehension, mother and I survived."
In a telephone interview, Bian-
women interned in Theresien-
stadt found some solace in writ- ca, a former editor at Gourmet
ing recipes, letters and comments Magazine, told me some of the
on scraps of paper. The so-called hardships of the three- to four-
"model city" was a stop on the way year-long project.
"I had to use a magnifying
to Auschwitz, but the book is a
record of memories from gentler glass [for the recipes, which were]
times — when women's lives re- written on brittle and yellowed
volved around home and family. papers; it was difficult to decipher.
Discussions of food helped create Each recipe was a challenge.
a sliver of normalcy, psychologi- Some were written in German
cal comfort and a stubborn resis- Gothic script, others in German
tance to their grim surroundings. and Czech."
Ingredients were omitted, di-
In 1942, Mina Pachter was
sent to Terezin. She was 70 years rections scanty and halted in mid-
old. With the women around her, sentence, all lapses caused by the
it was Mina who created the frag- constant terror and starvation of
ile, handsewn book. It is a family mind and body. This document is
legacy, the kind of book written a bittersweet legacy passed on to
future generations as its authors
would have wished.
Ethel G. Hofman is a syndicated
I didn't have time to decorate
columnist, cookbook author
this cake, Mina Pachter's Cake,
and immediate past president
as Bianca Steiner Brown sug-
of the International Association
gests. But the sad, sweet blend of
of Culinary Professionals.
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