As seen in the Detroit Free Press

Golden Harvest serves real Hong Kong cuisine

The Golden Harvest is a Chinese restaurant for peo-
ple who won't be put off when they spot the eel tank
where the snake-like creatures slither around awaiting
their fate.
Or who aren't taken aback
MOLLY
when a cook in splattered apron
ABRAHAM comes out of the kitchen to net a
Restaurants lobster from another tank (there
are four) and plop it into a pan.
It's for people unconcerned
that napkins are paper and the tableware serviceable at
best, under bright lights in a room virtually no "atmos-
phere," if by atmosphere we mean dangling lanterns and
paper parasols. It's for those who want an authentic
Chinese food experience.
This big Warren spot reminds me very much of a
restaurant in San Francisco's Chinatown into which I
forcibly dragged my reluctant traveling companion a
couple of years ago.
Although usually adventurous, my friend just wasn't
up to steamed chicken feet, beef trip with ginger and
green onion, deep-fried shrimp balls and pan-fried taro
cake. This is exactly the kind of thing being dished up
daily from 11 to 3 at the Golden Harvest.
Anyone who wanders into the place thinking it's just
another almond chicken emporium is going to get a sur-
prise. Let me quickly add: They do serve almond chick-
en, simply for survival, because it's a fact that some non-
Asians cling to dishes like this that they have come to
know as "Chinese," and order them even when more
interesting stuff is available.
But the real premise at the place is Hong Kong-style
cooking done by chefs who arrived here from that city
via New York. Head chef Lau Qiang Wei, dim sum

chefs Hing Tim Cheung and Xi Hua Zhang and propri-
etor Mi Chu Zhang do not speak English. Fortunately
for them, manager Tony Chen does the interpreting
when needed.
Most of the items are served in multiples of three;
some, like the sticky rice wrapped in a lotus leaf like a
package, are individual. The server pushing the cart
around the dining room can describe the dishes to those
unfamiliar with them, and the diner accepts or rejects.
(We rejected the tripe, for instance). Prices range from
$2.05 to $2.75 and the dishes are meant to be shared.
In the evening, yet another extensive menu is pre-
sented along with a shorter Americanized one offering
familiar dishes. Chef's specialties include such esoteric
stuff as dried scallops with pea tips, Cantonese sausage
and pork belly with vegetables, sliced cuttlefish and spicy
salted shrimp in their shell, casserole dishes like abalone
and sea cucumber, braised grouper and duck with
mashed taro.
Still, there are some well-known dishes even on that
menu, popular preparations such as General Tso's chick-
en, orange-flavored beef, beef with oyster sauce and moo
shu vegetables.
There's no great effort at presentation. At dinner the
other evening, dishes arrived at the table in no particular
order, but we enjoyed the progressive nature of the meal
because we could concentrate on a couple of dishes
before others were served. And, in any case, we were
sharing such dishes as eggplant with garlic sauce,
shrimp-stuffed spring rolls, whole steamed fish (yes,
right out of one of the tanks) heaped with julienned
strips of ginger and scallions, ma po bean curd with
Sichuan chicken.
But we spared the eels.

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In The Halsted Village Plaza
37610 W. 12 MILE RD. AT HALSTED • (810) 848-9009

ENJOY OUR SPECIAL,,
TWI-"LITE" MENU

GOLDEN HARVEST CHINESE RESTAURANT

* * * * out of 4 stars for food and * out of 4 stars for amenities

29900 VAN DYKE BETWEEN 12 AND 13 MILE, WARREN.

1-810-751-5288.
FARE Dim sum at lunch is just one option. There is also a
menu that includes noodle and congee (porridge) and other

Chinese-American dishes. The authentic Chinese menu
offers full-scale banquets in the evening, and an extensive list
of a la carte dishes, including steamed fish with ginger and
scallions, lobster with black bean sauce, prawns with garlic
sauce, conch with Chinese vegetables, Peking duck and
braised grouper. Soft drinks only.

ATMOSPHERE What Atmosphere? The barn-like former fit-

ness center doesn't bother with such frills. This is a serious
food emporium specializing in authentic Hong Kong food.
Fresh seafood served daily.

SERVICE Willing and upbeat; food is brought to the table

when it is ready, in no particular order.

NONSMOKING: 60 percent.

BARRIER-FREE Yes.

PRICE: Dim sum items $2.05-$2.75, main dishes $6.95-

$17.95.

CREDIT CARDS: AE, MC and Visa.

HOURS: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. daily; dim sum via carts and noodle
menu offered from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. daily.

KEY: Ratings are not meant as a comparison of restaurants
but as an evaluation of how well individual ones accomplish
what they set out to do.
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31005 ORCHARD LAKE RD. BEHIND F&M SOUTH Of 14 • 626-5020
MON.-SAT. 10 TO 11 SUN. 12 TO 9