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or years, Florida-bound
tourists have hesitated to
explore the fabulous Keys
for one simple reason. Un-
less you are prepared to fly to Key
West or some other intermediate
point on the string of islands that
juts out from America's south-
ernmost land mass, the only way
of accessing the Keys is via U.S.
Route 1, perhaps one of the most
heavily trafficked thoroughfares
in the United States.
On a busy day, it can take al-
most two and a half hours just to
exit greater Miami — not a com-
forting thought for those anxious
to taste the Keys' many charms.
Informed travelers should know,
therefore, that it is possible to
avoid that congestion by using
the Florida turnpike. For a total
of $1.50, a driver can bypass
greater Miami and be in Florida
City, at the northern tip of the
Keys, within 25 minutes; from
there to Key West, a pleasant
two-hour ride awaits you.
Speed limits on the Keys are
strictly enforced; this should not
be seen as a liability, but rather
as an invitation to linger on the
spectacular vistas. In addition to
the two bodies of water that ac-
company you on the trip to Key
West, numerous marinas and
fishing facilities (for salt water
catches) dot the mile
markers that help
you and the Keys'
keep
residents
track of locations on
U.S. 1.
,
There are 47 bridges and
causeways joining the Florida
mainland to the Keys south-
ward; one of them is seven miles
long at Pigeon Key. Traversing
those links, particularly the lat-
ter one, brings a heady feeling
to the motorist, a feeling akin to
riding in the sky while viewing
the vast glimmering ocean ex-
panses which spread out below.
When Henry Flagler com-
pleted his railroad to Key West
in 1912, this pioneering feat was
supposed to bring prosperity to
the region by permitting Amer-
ican agriculture to be exported
abroad. Ironically, the terminus
at Key West became the import
center for cheaper Caribbean
products shipped to the United
States. The railroad that Mr.
Flagler built can be seen only in
its vestigial remains today as
strange metal pontoon-like
structures that appear sudden-
ly to the right and left of U.S. 1
and just as quickly disappear.
The railroad was devastated
by a hurricane which swept
through the Keys in 1935: The
damage was so complete that it
was never rebuilt. Today, along _/
the highway which was con-
structed largely on the original
railroad bed, the mute remains
of Mr. Flagler's dream can be
glimpsed. The
• . trestles and
pontoons are
used today for jog-
ging and walking by
residents and tourists in
nearby communities.
There are only four large
settled communities on the
Keys, perhaps the most famous,
Key Largo, popularized by the
immensely successful
Humphrey Bogart film of the
same name. There is little com-
parison, however, between the
wild, grainy and foreboding re-
sort island in the Hollywood ver-
sion and the modern Key Largo.
Spread along more than 10
miles of U.S. 1, Key Largo pro-
vides many attractive fishing
and sport lodges on its inlets,
marinas and canals. The John
Pennekamp Coral Reef Park of-
fers visitors a geological expla-
nation of the factors which
helped form the physical char-
acteristics of the Keys.
The largest town in the upper
Keys is Islamadora, a more up-
scale habitation than Key Largo,
which boasts one of the best_
venues for deep-sea fishing.
Residents of Islamadora
have a busy social and intel-
lectual life judging from the lec-