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HONEYMOON page C49
once in Israel and chose Tel Aviv
as their base and toured from
there. "The hardest part was fig-
uring out what you want to see,"
Mr. Caplan says. "A lot of people
wait until they get over there, but
you're still dealing with a foreign
language and things can really run
rampant."
The Siegels suggest avoiding Is-
rael during Passover. They went
to Israel without any reservations
because they didn't want to feel
tied down. But they ended up
shut out of good accommodations.
"That's a big holiday time for Is-
raelis, so the hotels are packed,"
says Sharon, a national radio sales
rep. "And they're very strict about
the rules of Passover — there was
no alcohol, no elevators."
Anyone who visits Israel is im
mediately struck by the stringent
security measures taken by Israelis.
To ensure your safety and the safe-
ty of others, cooperate with the
authorities. Allow them to exam-
ine your bags and belongings at
places like the Western Wall and
the Knesset.
Mr. Neger notes that Eilat has
had a few skirmishes on the Israel-
Jordanian border, but that tourists
should feel very safe there.
Tiberias, he says, has had no inci-
dents that he is aware of.
In Jerusalem, he suggests tak-
ing guided tours for safety.
Take the same precautions you
would on any vacation. Don't
leave valuables in your hotel room
or in plain sight in a rental car. Be-
ware of pickpocketS, especially in
city markets. Avoid poorly lit or
deserted streets. And don't hitch-
hike.
No matter how you plan your
trip, Jerusalem is the must-see stop
for all visitors. The holiest and
most exotic of Israel's cities, it is a
unique blend of the old and the
new, the sacred and the secular.
Ultramodern hotels stand
watch over historical sites dating
-
back to biblical times, while fe-
male soldiers stand alongside side-
curled Chasidic Jews at bus stops.
Jerusalem's winding streets,
with their hard-to-pronounce
names, can seem a little over-
whelming. But armed with a good
map and the comforting thought
that most Israelis speak at least a
fair English, you'll get the hang of
it in no time. Mr. Neger recom-
mends a guided tour, which al-
lows tourists to see the popular
sites while avoiding any danger-
ous situations under the watchful
eye of a trained tour guide. "The
tour guides know where it is safe
to go," says Mr. Neger, who also
suggests travelers arrange tours in
advance through their travel
agents.
Combine leisure,
history and nature.
Nearly 3,000 years old,
Jerusalem has a wealth of histori-
cal sites, with the Old City as its
jewel in the crown.
Enter through the Jaffa Gate
and take a couple of hours to vis-
it the new Tower of David Mu-
seum, which is housed in the
ancient Citadel. From there, ask
directions to the Western Wall or
Kotel. You can either walk
through the colorful, aromatic
Arab market and haggle for bar-
gains, or follow the Old City's an-
cient outer walls and reach the
Kotel that way.
The walled city is still divided
into four quarters set out by the
Romans in 135 CE: Jewish, Mus-
lim, Christian, Armenian. The
Jewish Quarter, which is centered
around a Roman street called the
Cardo, is a good place to get a cold
drink and shop for Judaica, ancient
coins and ancient and contempo-
rary artwork.
Once refreshed, visit the mar-
velous archeological excavations