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LAKE ( 1O) 624-6660 1 PEKING GARDEN 1 ' 1 I SZECHUAN, HUNAN & CHINESE CUISINE 0°/ 0 I here are more than enough good Italian restaurants to go around with the sur- prising thing being so many fine ones havingplentiful repre- sentation of northern cuisine and a few touches of the Sicilian thrown in to complement the nu- merous examples of good south- ern Italian. Lelli's Inn on Woodward, just north of Grand Boulevard, con- sidered the intimate granddad- dy of all Detroit Italian restaurants, opened in 1939 and is synonymous with Old-World charm and excellent cuisine. Throughout the years, it has drawn numerous accolades from restaurant reviewers ... One would think that there is not too much more to write about Lelli's. But Lelli's is above being just another Italian restaurant ... or even one more dining institution ... It has a colorful history. Back in the 1920s, the site had been an old house used as a blind pig ... Many Detroit notables found their way to this locale and later spoke of it with much rev- erence. When Nerio Lelli, about as round as a ping pong ball and twice as bouncy, who liked to re- Expires 3-16-96 DINE IN OR C A RRYOUT I OFFim'a I I LUNCH SPECIALS 7 DAYS A WEEK I [ OPEN MON.-THURS. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m., 1 1 I I FRIDAY & SAT. 11 a.m.-11 p.m., SUNDAY 12 Noon-10 p.m. APPLEGATE SQUARE 0875 NORTHWESTERN HWY. At Inkster 1 0% C.1) OFF w BAC kROOrvi NOW OPEN SUNDAYS ni) 1 L . I I 353-7890j AND CARRWOUT (Excluding Alcoholic Beverages) FRESH & FANTASTIC MIDDLE EASTERN FOOD CATERING FOR ALL OCCASIONS • 1 Coupon Per Couple • Not Good With Other Coupons • Expires 3-31-96 • West Bloomfield Location Only 7295 ORCHARD LAKE RD. AT 14 In Robin's Nest • 810-851.1133 —1 fer to himself in the third person as "the doctor," proudly opened it, he did so with much pride that is still continued today. Signor Lelli would tell you half seriously, half kiddingly, that his was the best restaurant in De- troit, and he was the best chef ... After people met and talked to Nerio, they probably agreed with him. The "doCtor" business came from the fact that Nerio was an the corner was Arminio Bel- original and inventive chef, and tramello's Villa Venice, whose considered himself a true doctor property Mike obtained as a large parking area and restau- of culinary arts. The original walls at Lelli's rant addition. The original Lelli's Inn had were stippled green, the ceiling quite low and the place a maze of parking for only 40 cars ... Mike arches, little alcoves and tiny made a deal with Michigan Bell, rooms ... But Lelli's had a lot more bought a warehouse for an indoor charm and atmosphere than garage and today can park over 200 cars both indoors and out- most newer, modern places. This dining area, there since doors. Nerio originally had its opening, seating 125, a partner ... Cousin still stands today as sort of a memorial to Nerio, Mario Lelli, who was who passed on in 1970, bought out and opened and his wife Irene, who Mario's on Second passed on in 1984. Boulevard. In a more modern Mike, now 54 years old, tastes everything room, blue awnings over- when in town ... And if hang a sector above blue DANNY RASKIN LO CAL padded booths, blue linen not to his expectations, COLU MNIST tablecloths, blue linen throws it out ... He re- napkins, stucco ceiling, tired from the business one wall fully tiled, another com- but is still at the restaurant four pletely mirrored fronted by large or five times a week while here ... booths, and one more wall of stuc- Mike used to be there every day co ... Seating is for 200 ... Also and built a room for himself in the added on was a third room with back so he could shower "between the same style awnings and col- shifts." or scheme ... A loft seats 100 ... All Almost all the dishes at Lelli's told, there are six dining areas are from recipes handed down by Nerio ... Some were changed by now at Lelli's. A private banquet room where Mike, who retained his father's many recall their bar mitzvah re- original ways with subtle differ- ences. It is still an excellent northern Italian restaurant, but Lelli's has also become more of a steak house, going through about 3,000 pounds of tenderloin a week, cut by the hands of Executive Chef John Brown, who has been at Lelli's over 19 years, and does his own butchering and trim- ming, plus making the soups, sauces, etc. ... Around 1,000 pounds of veal a week are sold. Many remember when Ne- rio used to play the violin for customers ... It seems like a Lelli's custom that a violinist should be there ... Rudy Ziga has been strumming with the bow at Lelli's since 1977. Biggest seller on the menu is the wonderful Lelli's filet with the original zip sauce Nerio came up with ... His ception, shower or Steve Lelli, Beckie Palmina sauce has nation- other happy event Lelli and Chris Rado al note that former Detroi- being held, seats ters now living elsewhere upwards of 150. It has always been a family- still speak of whenever Lelli's is run restaurant ... and so Mike mentioned. Twenty-six-year-old Chris Lelli, then in his late 20s, took over operation when Nerio Rado is kitchen manager, and passed on ... Mike built the Blue also does butchering, cooking, etc. Room in 1977 on the site of what with John ... He has been there used to be the Iron Hinge Bar eight years. When Mike Lelli used to ask next to a Korean food store ... On