to celebrate her 40th birthday with a luncheon at Big Daddy's on Tuesday ... Ricki Rogow took full control and set up other arrangements to make certain that Mona would have her birthday party ... It was held at the Townsend Hotel ... paid for by Rick Rogow and Tommy Peri- steris. That everyone was evacuated L-lmly and collectively from Big Dada) , . Parthenon is a huge commendaa, n to its organiza- tional ability ... Evtm people who rushed out and left hk or her credit cards have all gottena,..m back. Smoke from the ventilation system promoted a big scare ... And the customers who seem to be there all the time have shown a devotion not seen in the restaurant business since Dar- bys on Seven Mile Road and Wyoming. People cried when Darbys burned down in 1968 ... and nev- er again reopened. Thankfully, Big Daddy's Parthenon did. CONGRATS ... to Ilene Rhodes ... on her 90th birthday ... celebrated at the Radisson Plaza ... to Clive Cantor ... on his 70th birthday ... feted at Excal- ibur with a surprise visit by his California barrister daughter, Linda Cantor ... to Antonio Foglia ... on his 50th birthday ... surprised with a party at Excal- ibur. People cried when Darbys burned down and never reopened ... Thankfully, Big Daddy's Parthenon did. ONE OF THE most popular salads of all time is heading back into the limelight as a front-run- ner again. And among the more noted makers of Caesar salads is bring- ing it forward with added em- phasis. Manuel Chavez, owner of Ris- torante di Modesta in Market Street on Northwestern High- way, was a waiter at the Roost- ertail on East Jefferson when only captains made Caesar sal- ads tableside ... It was in 1963 that Manuel was selected there to also make Caesar salads ... even though he was just a waiter and frowned at using powdered mustard which the former nitery/restaurant insist- ed upon. At the Roostertail, Manuel also used to - also make his Cae- sar salads with Magie sauce, which, he says, no one uses any- more ... ,Thrt of like a soy sauce. While at Bonaventure in Troy, his Caesar salads were little short of sensational. But before this, years ago at Restaurant Duglass in South- field, Manuel had finally changed to seeded Pommery mustard instead of powdered mustard ... and it made a big dif- ference. Today, his Ristorante di Mod- esta serves about 450 Caesar sal- ads a week ... They are done in the kitchen, not tableside, under his watchful supervision and with Manuel's recipe ... After all, if it was good enough for Les and Sam Gruber at their London Chop Howie, it was OK at Ris- torante di Modesta. However, a Caesar salad at one time was just another salad if it wasn't made tableside ... And to some, it still is. This is where Manuel hopes to shine again ... The rolling cart and large bowl he used at Restaurant Duglass have trav- eled wherever he goes. During lunchtime at Ris- torante di Modesta, when cus- tomers so request, he will roll out that cart and personally make the culinary treat for them ... The large bowl will mix about 10 Caesars, so Manuel can prepare large numbers at one time ... which he probably may have to do. Manuel doesn't use the whole egg anymore ... He says nobody ever asked him to make Caesar salads with the white only ... Af- ter discovering that the taste was exactly the same, Manuel switched to egg whites. Mixed with romaine lettuce, fresh garlic cloves, real an- chovies, egg whites, olive oil, Pommery mustard, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce and fresh- ly squeezed lemon, is what he has also found to be much better ... Reggiano cheese, a sort of parmigiana which gives an added, zesty flavor. Manuel Chavez doing it his way as bossman at Ristorante di Modesta ... making Caesar sal- ads at tableside when requested during lunch ... is the something different in a lost art that he has given rebirth to. DOUBLETREE HOTEL on Beck Road off Franklin, former Embassy Suites, still has Sun- day brunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. ... $15.95 adults, $13.95 se- niors, and $7.95 12 and under ... There are about 30 items now, including omelet, beef carving and dessert stations ... but plans are ahead for it to soon be even more sumptuous. And there is no more Jacques Demers Restaurant at Double- Tree ... This and another former dining sector are still there, but open for private and large par- ties ... The atrium area is now - -A per ect gift... One of N•.,. Beantirui an • Detroit's Most Restaurants Wonderfully Prepared Cate' in Your Home, Office or at Our Restauraitt__ FINE DINING • DANCING ENTERTAINMENT TUES. 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