Bonds of Friendship Hundreds of small gift-giving acts a year characterize Japanese ILLUSTRATION BY ANN FIELD etiquette. Ivy! hen December rolls Presento, okurimono, o- around and gifts be- miyage, o-chugen, o-seibu ... there come a collective is a name to fit every kind of gift headache for almost in Japan, and the optional hon- everyone, I close my eyes orific "o" added to the front of and take a mental trip to most of the terms reflects the for- Japan, where, despite the mality with which gifts are re- department-store slogans, few garded. gifts actually change hands for the While Japanese etiquette may holidays. The Japanese resist, per- have perished in certain areas— haps needing a respite from pre- say, the rush for seats on the sub- sento wars fought long and hard way— it is upheld rigorously in during the rest of the year. gift rituals, where a strongly felt duty to reciprocate can turn the gift of a nice package of dried eel into a back-and-forth battle that can last forever. I spent two years enduring such skirmishes in Hayama, a small, serene beach town south of Tokyo where my husband, a Navy officer, was stationed. I'd been alerted that a nice present delivered to my nearest neigh- bors immediately upon moving in would send the right message: I was mannerly, cooperative, and deeply apologetic for the stress caused by my moving van's pres- ence. So at my first sighting of an okusan, or "person of the interi- or," as housewives are politely called, I approached with a Whit- man's Sampler box outstretched. But my neighbor appeared star- tled and refused the gift. Three times. I persisted and after a few more minutes, Mrs. Inaba, an at- tractive woman dressed in tweed trousers and frilly apron, finally took my present into both hands and held it up to her forehead — a sign of respect. She had the kindness, then, to help fill in the words I'd forgot- ten in my requisite gift-giving line: "This is really a small, in- significant thing." I was elated. This was just as the etiquette books said it would be. I'd employed the right Berlitz phrase; she'd refused before ac- cepting; we were going to be friends. But not so quickly. Despite my promptness with the chocolates, the neighbors still waited and watched, until after a month or two, the okusan next door shyly presented me with five oranges. ‘Se) . SUJATA BANERJEE MASSEY SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH NEWS Next came a gorgeous honeydew melon from the neighbor across the street. And so it went. Every few weeks, when I least expect- ed it, someone would come to my door with a gift of fresh fruit or a regional delicacy brought back from vacation. Food gifts turned out to be some of the most welcome gifts among the Japanese because such items as soba noodles and nori (the flat seaweed wrapped around sushi) could be quickly consumed and thus forgotten — versus lingering on a shelf, a physical reminder of a lasting debt. Relatively inexpensive, these items allowed hundreds of small gift-giving acts a year. Soon I grew to realize that any- one entering the house, short of the gas woman, would bring a gift, despite my many entreaties to "relax and just be friends." Gifts were, for the most part, sim- ple and sublime, like the bunch of dried lavender brought all the way from somebody's garden in the Japanese Alps and five tan- gerines nestled in green washi paper — the wrapping being al- most as important as the gift it- self. Discreet concealment is key; in fact the word for wrapping, tsutsumi, is said to stem from a verb meaning to refrain, be mod- erate and careful. Paper wrap- ping also ensures a gift's purity which, in the case of food, makes good sense. The wrapped gift would then travel in yet another protective covering, usually a crisp, colorful paper shopping bag bearing a fa- mous department-store logo. And after all of this, upon pre- sentation, the gift giver would LC) adopt a thoroughly embarrassed Cr) air and issue stock denigrations: Cr) "I know you probably don't like sweets, but maybe your wife will -ct- C■1 eat them." Or, most poignantly: "I'm sorry. I'm sure this isn't de- LU CC) licious at all." 2 As a recipient, my obligation w Sujata Banerjee Massey is a Balti- more writer working on a novel set in Japan. G0