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I
t looks at first like a giant
poster — a large shiny black
rectangle with neatly printed
names. It is prominently dis-
played on Wittenbergplatz, just
at the entrance of one of Berlin's
busiest underground stations, so
hundreds of people pass it each
day.
What they see as they walk by
is not an ordinary poster. Instead,
it is a sobering reminder of the
past. The black rectangle consists
of a long list of names, one on
each horizontal slab — the names
of the concentration camps of
Nazi Germany.
This unusual memorial — so
public, so stark, so unadorned —
is just one of the many ways that
Berlin, now the official capital of
Germany, remembers its past.
Indeed, the past is pervasive
in this city, which is also a vibrant
and dynamic modern capital. It's
a city which has much to offer the
Jewish traveler — klezmer mu-
sic concerts, kosher restaurants,
a Jewish bookstore, six syna-
gogues and much more.
But besides all these attrac-
tions of modern Jewish Berlin,
the city is unique in the number
and variety of its memorials to
the Holocaust.
Visiting them can add a spe-
cial dimension to a trip to Berlin,
as I discovered on a recent visit.
Plaques, sculptures, full-scale ex-
hibits — there were so many
memorials I could not begin to
cover them all. But the ones I did
visit were often dramatic, un-
usual, and eloquent.
Auschwitz. Stutthof. Maid-
anek. Treblinka. Theresienstadt.
The names, displayed in such a
public, stark way, made the Wit-
tenbergplatz memorial unusual
and arresting.
Seated on a bench in the small
park near the subway entrance,
I watched as people rushed by,
carrying briefcases and packages,
passing the posted names. For
daily commuters, it is part of the
landscape by now. But it is there,
inescapable, a constant reminder.
Another visible reminder —
this one a dramatic sculpture —
is prominently displayed outside
the modern Jewish Community
Center at Fasanenstrasse 79-80.
It depicts a Torah scroll rest-
ing on a pedestal. But near the
bottom, it is jaggedly cut off, a vis-
ible reminder of th breaking of
Jewish life in this city which was
a once major Jewish center. A
broken piece of the scroll, also
resting on the pedestal, forms the
second part of the sculpture.
Inside, on the lobby level, is the
Jewish community's larger Holo-
caust memorial, this one set
apart in a courtyard. Like the
Wittenbergplatz, this one, too, fo-
cuses on the names of the camps.
But it is less public and much
more a private and secluded spot
for memory and reflection.
The courtyard is silent and
cool. Facing the visitor is a sim-
ple gray wall depicting a map of
Germany, with the sites of each
concentration camp marked and
named. Although this is a simple
memorial, it has its special pow-
er because it is on the grounds of
a modern Jewish center in Berlin,
a JCC which illustrates that Jew-
ish life is flourishing in a city
where it was once so cruelly de-
stroyed.
Other memorials I visited were
dramatic not only because of what
they showed but because they
were located on the very sites
where horrors of the Holocaust oc-
curred. And there were many hor-
L\