Dining in the 90s

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izon-pop
categories

white
meat

fat

oiganic
food

awareness of
ingredients

Alunno: It is natural for me as I am from
the South of France. There we use tomato,
olive oil and fresh herbs as the basis of our
cooking. I couldn't live without olive oil, tar-
ragon and basil.
Jonna: I find the Mediterranean cook-
books to be the best around today. I think
Italian cuisine vas stronger 10 or 15 years
ago. Mediterranean has taken its place. We
sell more feta cheese than ever, not just for
salads. I put some feta on an oven-proof
plate, surround it with some prepared roast-
ed red pepper sauce and bake
it for 20 minutes. It is quick,
healthy and delicious and
great with bread. But it
isn't just Mediterranean
cuisine that is so pop-
ular. American cuisine
is now ethnic cuisine.
Schmidt: I think Italian food has a par-
ticular demeanor and a history. American
food is more of a melting pot now. The
American cuisine I'm talking about uses the
familiar ingredients, but combined in dif-
ferent sequences to create different flavors.
That is the essence of it, but this trend is re-
gionally determined. The New World food
that is popular now in Florida, combining
Caribbean, Cuban and Smith
American tastes, is not popular
here.
Weinzweig: We are always
looking for new items. I'm very

high on some
of the products
we've found
from Spain, in-
credible vinegars, roasted peppers in papri-
ka. As an owner, I am impressed with our
sales of olive oil. It's a huge growth item in
our store.
STYLE: You are saying that people
have more options, at the restaurant
and at the supermarket. But isn't there
a kind of tyranny going on as well?
How do you feel about all of the
concern about fat? There is a lot
of grain counting going on these
days. Suddenly, butter and cream
are cooking evils.
Weinzweig: I don't believe that you
can cut out fat from your diet, like Paul Or-
nish recommends, and be healthy. You'll
he 20 pounds lighter and unhappy. Food
needs to satisfy emotional and mental health
as well as physical well-being. You can eat
very small amounts of good quality food if
you eat it with an awareness of what you are
eating. I have seen people gorge themselves
on poor quality cheese from the supermar-
ket. It lacks intensity of flavor, so people
compensate by overeating.
Schmidt: Americans have not got-
ten fat in balance yet. Some fat is
essential in a good diet. It is a nu-
trient that is important for the ab-
sorption of Vitamin K for eyesight

and energy. But it shouldn't be used for fry-
ing. The key is balance.
STYLE: What are you doing to achieve
this balance?
Schmidt: We use cooking techniques that
minimize our use of fat. I rely on grilling,
high temperatures and non-stick pans. Peo-
ple want flavor. We look for freshness and
seasonings.
Jonna: I shy away from butter. I use mari-
nades for flavor. Sometimes, as a
substitute for oil, I use pome-
granates. I squeeze the seeds,
strain the juices, mix them with
honey and reduce the mixture.
Then I use it as a glaze.
Alunno: Everyone is using less
cream and butter, even the classic
French chefs. I use beef stock reduced, or
veal stock, which is even better. Slow cook-
ing techniques are important. I prepare a
vinaigrette of olive oil, coriander, lemon
juice, chopped tomato,
balsamic vinegar, tar-
ragon and parsley that I
like for grilled duck
breast and grilled fish.
Weinzweig: We're
probably a bit more
aware of fat content in our
preparations than we were ten years ago.
Quality is the key. There are no easy an-
swers, though everyone is looking for
them.

STYLE • WINTER 1995 •

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