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September 01, 1995 - Image 86

Resource type:
Text
Publication:
The Detroit Jewish News, 1995-09-01

Disclaimer: Computer generated plain text may have errors. Read more about this.

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E•S
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"A Little Bit Of New York Right Here In Bloomfield Hills"

OPEN
LABOR DAY
TILL 3 P.M.

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■ ■ ■11:

STEVE'S DELI

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: HOT DOGS : *
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FREE
■ JUMBO VIENNA



:. 111



Buy 1 Lb. and get 2nd Lb. FREE.
Limit 1 Lb. FREE With This Coupon.
Offer expires 9/4/95

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:•• • • STEVE'S DELI • • •.•

• FREE mi.

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Buy 1 Pint or Quart and get 2nd FREE,
Mix or Match. LIMIT 1 FREE With Coupon. ji
Offer expires 9/4/95
IMMI•••••••••• ei•

6646 Telegraph Rd. At Maple

Phone: (810) 932-0800 • Bloomfield Plaza

r

SEEN AT MARVIN'S

.

LARRY WEINGARDEN, Attorney and Counselor, Weingarden & Haven;
JEFF CHUTZ, Financial Advisor, Pin Game Journal; JIM SCHELBERG,
Editor, Pin Game Journal and Part-Time Podiatrist; NICHOLE LEVY And
SARAH KIPERMAN, L & L Jewelry & Loan; Steven Growe, Account
Executive, Capital Mortgage Funding; LEE TURNER, Max's Jewelry,
Hamtramck; JAY ABRAMSON, Attorney and Israeli M Dealer:

SALES • RENTAL • SERVICE
VIDEOS & PINBALLS
WE HAVE BLACK &
OPEN
WHITE AND COLOR
LABOR DAY PHOTO BOOTHS

THIS AD

1 Coupon
Per
Person

1 LN

Expires
9/7/95

31005 ORCHARD LAKE RD. BEHIND MAI SOUTH OF 14.626-5020
MON.-SAT.10 TO 11, SUN.12 TO 9

THE DETRO IT JEWIS H NEWS

R.1STOR_AN1E 8' BAR)

8

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• COLE SLAW or •
POTATO SALAD : ■ *

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OPEN
LABOR DAY
TILL 3 P.M.

Features Italian Style Cuisine
With A European Flair

Lake Superior Whitefish Almondine
Maple Planked Norwegian Salmon
Chicken Parmigiano
Veal Limone

$12.95
$15.95
$10.95
$15.95

A Sample From Our Fine Menu

YOUR HOSTS JIM & CHRIS STEVENS

Novi Rd. N. of 10 Mile • Pineridge Shopping Ctr. 810-380-0011

com qor
sib Will 3

04

0 1

A Fine Look Back
At The Restaurant Scene

DANNY RASKIN LOCAL COLUMNIST

0

h, how guys and gals wish
those places Mom and Dad
talk about so much were
still around.
The history of Berman's
Chop House is a revered one ...
It was originally opened in the
Prohibition days by Ben Gottleib
and Harry Berman in the old
YWCA Building on Grand River
and Washington Boulevard.
About three years later,
Berman's was moved to Times
Square and veritably made his-.
tory with great food ... After 17
years, Sam Davis bought out
Harry Berman and as a team, he
and Ben Gottleib continued to
keep everything as it was.
Except for the prices, the menu
was the same for nearly 40 years
... Berman's was about the only
place in Detroit that aged its
meat ... 10,000 pounds were al-
ways carried in the refrigerators
and all beef was aged from 16 to
18 days.
The decor was rustic, with
stuffed birds on the mantle
brought in through the years for
display by customers ... Pictures
of celebrated people lined the
walls ... Til the day it closed,
some of the great names in all
walks of life knew Berman's as
the great chop house that it was
... About the cottage-fried pota-
toes for which Berman's was also
famous, every potato was cut to
order.
When ordering a chopped sir-
loin at Berman's, that's exactly
what people got ... a statement
not made by too many places ...
In the meat cutting room, prop-
erly aged sirloins were cut into
sizes and weighed ... Pieces too
small to serve were ground into
real, true chopped sirloin.
Much has been written about
the London Chop House on
Congress ... It was founded in
1938 by Les Gruber as a water-
ing hole for himself and his
friends ... Until suffering a ma-
jor stroke in 1981, he missed very
few nights there ... and passed
on the same year.
When ill, Les made it clear
that the restaurant was to con-
tinue ... "It's good for Detroit," he
said. "It makes a lot of jobs" ... So
friends Max and Lainie Pincus
bought the place ... and although
they had no previous restaurant
experience (owned Hughes &
Hatcher clothing store), did main-
tain much of the food and wine
standards that Les had set.
Like many of the restaura-
teur's old friends, Lainie and Max
remembered Les Gruber as an

indomitable educator of Mid-
western palates ... For decades,
he traveled all over the world, of-
ten with close friend, author/
columnist James Beard, and the
great wine expert, Alex Lichine
... On Les' return, he would sup-
ply his steady customers with de-
tailed itineraries of restaurants,
markets or museums not to be
missed.
In 1977, Les decided that Lon-
don Chop House patrons were
ready for the new wave of French
cooking ... "I've
got a new kid in
the kitchen who
does 'nouvelle cui-
sine'," said Les ...
The new kid was
Chef Jimmy
Schmidt, then 22
years old and re-
cent graduate of
Madeleine Kam-
man's Modern
Gourmet cooking
school/restaurant
near Boston.
Food and Wine
magazine described\
the London Chop
House as "a great restau-
rant that breaks all the rules"
... The scope of Les' menu,
European and Ameri-
can, represented his
biography ... The
garish stuffed ani-
mals were his whim
.... The 12,000-bottle
wine cellar was his
passion.
The London Chop
House flaunted all the
elements of a crazy dream ... If
people had never been there be-
fore, the feeling of having come
to the wrong place would be ap-
parent ... Only a small plaque
marked the restaurant entrance
... Once inside, one would have
to be hungry enough to descend
a long, dark staircase to the base-
ment.
Once there, you had to be pre-
pared not to flee what appeared
to be a huge suburban recreation
room ... complete with big, pas-
tel stuffed animals, walls plas-
tered with celebrity caricatures
and signs posted above the bar
with such witticisms as, "To Hell
With Coca-Cola. This is the
Pause That Refreshes."
Joan Lee had chosen her ca-
reer long before she ended up in
the restaurant business ... She
was all set to become an attorney
when her father, Harold
Borgman, founder of the
Pontchartrain Wine Cellars,

became ill ... Joan was soon in
the restaurant business on West
Larned.
The old Pontchartrain, on
Wayne, was opened by her dad
in 1935 ... It was known mainly
for excellent food, fine wines and
an atmosphere that could not be
duplicated elsewhere between
New York and Chicago and was
not matched until the new
Pontchartrain on W. Lamed
opened in 1956.
A stunning, blue-eyed blonde

0 DG 199^

with a vivacious
personality, Joan used to take
tours of Europe, visiting the
wineries of Bordeaux and Bur-
gundy, tasting, evaluating and
buying for her restaurant ...
When not laboring in the vine-
yards, Joan worked at the Coq
Hardi, an elegant little restau-
rant in the suburbs of Paris,
learning the fine points of French
cuisine ... The knowledge she ab-
sorbed in France was put to prac-
tical application at the
Pontchartrain.
The menu did not feature the
haute cuisine one would have ex-
pected from a French restaurant,
but rather featured the more sim-
ple dishes of the French
provinces.
Stu Cunningham's excellent-
ly situated Fisherman's Wharf
was a victim of its own success ...
On beautiful summer evenings,
particularly on weekends, the
cocktail patio overlooking the St.
Clair River was jammed with loy-

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