Following The Tracks
RUTH ROVNER SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH NEWS
recisely on the minute, the
small, sturdy train pulled
out of the station at Chur.
First, our route took us
right through the center of the
town, past houses with bright
flower pots on their balconies,
past the foaming canal that ex-
tended like a ribbon through the
The train purred rhythmical-
ly. With its wide picture windows
halfway open, we could inhale
sweetly fragrant mountain air
and look down to see sheer drops
below the tree line and looming
mountain peaks just ahead.
In just one hour, the train ar-
rived in Arosa, a mountain vil-
lage in eastern Switzerland; and
I got off almost reluctantly.
For a train-riding enthusiast
like me, this trip to Arosa was
pure pleasure. Based in Zurich
for a week, I was using a Swiss
Rail Pass to travel high and low
in scenic Switzerland. An excel-
lent bargain in this small coun-
try of mountains and lakes—and
available for purchase only in the
United States—the Swiss Pass
entitled me to almost unlimited
access to trains, well as postal
buses and public steamship lines.
I was using it not only to enjoy
the pleasure of scenic train rides
but also to visit sites of special in-
terest to Jewish travelers, in-
cluding two kosher hotels high in
One of them was the Metro-
pole in Arosa. This was my sec-
ond day trip to Arosa; and before
I visited the Metropole, I wanted
to enjoy the special ambiance of
this serene mountain town so dif-
ferent from cosmopolitan Zurich.
So I strolled along the glass-
like lake in the center of town, in-
haled the bracing mountain air,
admired the vivid mountain flow-
ers. Then it was just a few min-
Greyhound makes it so easy to get there with low fares every day on every bus. Just walk
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$ 2 1 1 9
Deluxe hotel accommodations
Full breakfast and dinner daily
7 days sightseeing
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A view from a train in Switzerland.
utes walk up the main street to
Because it was mid-afternoon,
the hotel was quiet: Most guests
had left to go hiking or to visit
other mountain towns, easy to do
with Switzerland's dense net-
work of mountain trains and
But the desk clerk readily led
the way to the outdoor terrace,
where I had a dramatic view of
Mount Schafsbrucken. Then I en-
joyed coffee in the dining room,
where curtains were open to af-
ford full view of the mountain. In
fact, with one wall entirely mir-
rored, the whole room reflected
the scenery outdoors.
This is where guests are served
kosher breakfast and dinner dai-
ly. Menorot were on the tables;
and, nearby, kosher wines were
stored in a cabinet.
Besides it kosher food, the
Arosa offers guests the chance to
attend minyan every day in the
small shul upstairs.
Of course, besides its kosher
meals and minyans, the Metro-
pole also offers its guests the
chance to enjoy all the pleasures
of a popular but unspoiled moun-
tain town, where they can go hik-
ing and mountain climbing in
summer or skiing in winter.
The Metropole is one of three
kosher hotels in Switzerland
which are in mountain settings.
Another is the Edelweiss in St.
Moritz. But this well-known ski
resort was too far to be a com-
fortable day trip from Zurich. I
would have save the Edelweiss
for another time. Instead, I
planned an excursion to Grindel-
wald and another unusual kosher
hotel, the Silberhorn.
This time, I first boarded a
sleek inter-city train which
whisked me from Zurich to In-
terlaken, the town between two