Fasten Your Seatbelt 42 what we've known — a rat-race society, a collection of individuals with little corn- mon purpose except to keep the Arab en- emy at bay, a two-tiered society of haves and have-nots, a predominantly Jewish Singapore covered with concrete, cars and bunched-up people. An Israel that, in its rush from the collective to the in- dividual spirit, will have pretty much thrown out the baby with the bathwater. We're in a heady passage now, a tran- sition between the old Israeleand the new, and we're traveling hopefully. By the time we settle into the next century, we will have arrived, and I'm afraid we won't be particularly inspired by what we find. The best way to get an idea of what Israel will be in the first and second decades of the next century is simply to drive around the country. You will be shocked by the traffic jams — Israel has more cars per mile of road than any other country in the world, including Hong Kong — and by all the construction crews ripping up the land to build more highways and more apartment build- ings. Pay attention to the green hills and fields that stretch out into the distance, because in a couple of decades they will, for the most part, be filled with people. Here a few statistics are in order. Israel's current population — not count- ing the West Bank and Gaza — is about 5.5 million. In the year 2020, Israel's master planners project a population of 8.4 million. The number of vehicles on the roads, now about 1.3 million, will roughly triple. Slowly, very slowly, a pas- senger train network is being built, mainly around Tel Aviv and Haifa, but it will ease only a tiny part of the traffic burden. What we're looking at is not only the transformation of the entire coastal and central regions into one continuous urban-suburban bloc, with a few forlorn little patches of green here and there, but also the suburbanization of the rambling, rural north — the Galilee. That's about the only sprawling, open territory we've got; there is no Montana or Wyoming in which to stretch out. (The Golan Heights probably will remain a rough, sparsely populated corner — if it is still a part of this country.) What's left is the Negev desert, the bottom half of the country, but 90 percent of it is closed for military use. Farms across Israel will be given over for development, a trend that is already well under way — kibbutzim, sinking in debt, are selling off their farmland, while moshavim (cooperative farming villages), likewise in the red, are bulldozing their fields to make way for $350,000 houses. The paving of Israel, together with the galloping growth in people and cars, makes me wonder how much longer we will be able to speak seriously about "quality of life" in this country. For many years now it's been a nerve- racking hassle to live in either of the two major cities, Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, or their commuter suburbs. Living in Tel Aviv I see miles of cars hardly moving on the inbound highways during morn- ing rush hour. I try not to drive in town, but on the evenings when I pick up my wife from work, we have to travel about a half-mile on Allenby Street, a main thoroughfare, and I always — always — have to swerve a few times to avoid a car or bus swinging into my lane, and slam on the brakes for pedestrians running across the street. We are not ready for what's coming. On the whole, Israelis are not made to live in close, crowded conditions. Too many of them litter the streets and parks without a care. They are noisy beyond belief, whether they're compulsively honking their horns on the streets or bel- lowing to each other during a nature walk on Shabbat. They don't know how to wait in line, and they argue for sport. I've heard all the excuses for Israeli public behavior — the anxiety over terror and war, the Holocaust, the 2,000 years of exile, the trauma of circumcision — but they won't wash and they don't mat- ter. There is just too high an obnoxious- ness quotient in this society. I think it's dropped a bit over the years, though, as travel abroad and American TV have in- troduced people to the more civilized ways of the West, and money and op- portunity have made them less frus- trated. Getting on a bus with a crowd of Israelis is somewhat less of a bruising experience than it used to be. But after going through the mundane human exchanges of a day, the Israeli still comes home fairly scraped up. As we begin to rub ever more against each other, as we pack in closer and the fric- tion of daily life increases, we are going to have to change in a very fundamental way and learn to respect each other, to go easy on each other, or later on this place will not be just difficult, it will be miserable to live in. That's at the daily, routine level of life. At a deeper level — the level of national values — the de-greening of the land and the skyrocketing of the population will empty out much of the meaning we've traditionally understood from the ad- jective "Israeli." One of those meanings already has disappeared almost entirely, and the future will remove even the last traces. A core value of the Zionist revolution was that the Jews, impractical luftmentschen for so long in the Diaspora, must not only return to their ancestral homeland, they must also work the land with their own hands. My uncles used to farm their crops with their sons and neighboring Arabs at Kfar Hasidim, a moshav east of Ha ifa that my family helped found in 1925. Now I have only one cousin left there who's still a farmer, and he's better de- scribed as an agribusinessman, making most of his money growing garlic in Morocco. The moshav has turned into a mixture of large houses and neglected, weedy little agricultural plots. The last I heard, Kfar Hasidim's remaining mem- bers were negotiating with the Israel Electric Co. to sell their cooperatively owned farmland for use as the site of a new power transformer station. The Jewish farmer has become some- thing of an eccentric in Israel. The phys- ical work is done mainly by Palestinians, Israeli Arabs, and, more and more, by foreign laborers brought over from Thai- land and other countries. (The same goes for construction work.) The Jews develop great agricultural technology and mar- ket the produce, but the sweat labor is done overwhelmingly by gentiles. The once-revered value of avodah Ivrit, He- brew labor, is now an item of nostalgia, sort of like cowpunching in Texas. The cementing of Israel's remaining farm- land will only make it an even more dis- tant memory. But there are other bedrock values of Israeli life that are only now beginning to come under question. Within another generation, they too will have gone the way of avodah Ivrit. In the past, the Zionist tenet that Jews must leave the Diaspora and "come home" to Israel had not only an ideolog- ical basis but also an obvious practical one. Masses of Jewish immigrants were needed to farm the land, work the fac- tories, fill the cities and towns, and, of course, fight the Arabs. Not anymore. Israel already has a great surplus of Jews to do all these things. There is not enough work for the Jews who are here. Unemployment ran consistently at or above 10 percent in the early '90s, and only recently dipped below 8 percent, which is still high. The army is turning away healthy, draft-age men by the droves. The cities and high- ways are full to bursting. And this condi- tion, this oversupply of people, will only be exacerbated in the future — by an es- timated 7 million people in 2010, and 8.4 million in 2020. Overcrowding is going to compete with terror and the danger of war as Israel's worst problem. So who can still seriously argue the case for mass aliyah? The notion that large-scale immigra- tion would be grievously harmful to this country remains a controversial idea, to say the least. It strikes at the heart of Zionism. But life here has changed rad- ically. Anybody who looks at Israel first as a society, not as a cause, who thinks about real people living in a real land, not about songs and slogans, must con- clude that the "ingathering of the exiles" is a Zionist goal that should be scrapped, for Israel's sake. This country should always welcome Jews who need or want to come live here, and do whatever is necessary to get them here, and I believe it will. But as regards the majority of the Diaspo- ra — the Jews who live in North Amer- ica, South America and Europe, and who want to stay put — what interest will Israel have in trying to convince them otherwise? It finally has gotten through to Jews abroad that this country has reached its goal of economic independence, that it no longer requires foreign Jewish phil- anthropy — or American governmen- tal philanthropy, for that matter — to live well, let alone survive. Our nouveau- riche economy has caused no end of re- evaluations of the Israel-Diaspora relationship. Now there is something new to consider — that Israel needs more immigrants like it needs more bu- reaucrats. Take away both philanthropy and aliyah, and what practical, press- ing need will bind Israel to the rest of the Jewish world? Another traditional Israeli value that has faded in recent years, and which fig- ures to become imperceptible in the next century, is equality. My wife recalls that when she moved here from South Africa in the early '80s, she loved the absence of social hierarchy, the way the bus driver had the same status as the bank manager or engineer. Well, money changes everything. We went looking for an apartment recently in Modi'in, ancient home of the Macca- bees and soon-to-be-built "City of the Future." The main selling point in one of the more expensive neighborhoods was the "quality" of the homebuyers. "You want to live with the right kind of people," the real estate agent said. "There are going to be doctors, lawyers, busi- ci