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countered only one Jew, the oc-
togenarian Joe Harari, sum-
moned from his home to unlock
the empty synagogue for us.
The policeman was called upon
to render a decision on the pro-
found disputation which had
broken out between me, deter-
mined to record the seder,
and the young `ba'al teshuvah,'
equally determined to protect his
first Passover from technological
desecration.
The arbiter, who obviously
wanted his own picture taken,
pronounced in my favor. The col-
or slides I made that night at the
old-age home in Alexandria re-
main a precious legacy, to be pro-
jected at homebound seders to
family and friends — whether
they like it or not!
The Eliahu Hanavi Synagogue
is at 69 Nebi Daniel St., Ramla
Station, Alexandria. There is no
telephone on the premises, but
the military policeman who
guards the entrance to the syna-
gogue complex can be persuaded
to call Harari; and that elderly
gentleman, keeper of the key, will
hobble to the synagogue and un-
lock its doors for visitors.
Other old age homes turned
out to be the venues for seders we
attended, in both Venice and
Helsinki.
About 13 years ago — I believe
it was 1982 — we attended a seder
at the Casa di Riposa (House of
Rest), the home for the aged in
Venice. The dignified, two-story
building was constructed in the
late 19th century on the site of an-
cient houses in which Jews had
lived since 1516, when Europe's
first ghetto was established.
Those earlier buildings were
destroyed in the fierce fighting
that followed Napoleon's invasion
of Venice and the liberation of the
ghetto in 1796. Present-day trav-
elers who cross the Ponte delle
Guglia and turn left a distance of
a few yards along the Canareg-
gio Canal will find at the narrow,
inconspicuous entrance to the
ghetto tangible evidence of its lib-
eration.
Indentations in the walls on
both sides of the opening mark
the locations of the iron gate
hinges that Napoleon's soldiers
— or perhaps the ghetto inhabi-
tants themselves — ripped loose
from their brick moorings.
The modest assemblage of ag-
ing men and women with whom
we shared the Passover meal re-
membered well another brick
wall, the high enclosure just out-
side their home still topped with
the barbed wire the Nazis had
embedded in it. The Germans
had occupied Venice in 1943,
again confining the city's Jews to
the ghetto, just as the Venetian
doges had done more than four
centuries earlier
This time, the act of enclosure
by the Nazis was also a death
sentence. Our seder hosts who
JERUSALEM page 74
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