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museum depicting their fate.
Glossy photos, names and de-
scriptions were portrayed in a
dramatic style designed to im-
print the viewer's memory. Out-
side the museum stood metal
sculptures of fragile figures in
distress.
The Jewish Quarter of Prague
was humming with activity —
alive with visitors, Jews and
many Christians. Tour groups,
including school groups, were
everywhere, especially Scandi-
navians. Our tour guide was a
young woman in her twenties,
Veronica. She obviously had
studied up on the history and
cared about her subject. Having
a Jewish father, she was proud
of her heritage, but wistfully said,
"But, according to halachic law,
I am not a Jew."
The entire Jewish quarter was
a beacon drawing people. It em-
anated an energy which said we
are the custodians of a proud and
significant centuries old people
and culture. Symbols of this trea-
sure are housed in the famed
Jewish Museum of Prague. We
saw some of the thousands of
Jewish artifacts collected and
stored there. The Nazis pre-
served this great collection of Ju-
daica as they envisioned it to
become part of the museum of an
extinct race.
We walked slowly through the
Old Jewish Cemetery with some
12,000 tombstones, thick like
crooked teeth, graves placed on
top of graves. In some places
there were 10 burial layers, gen-
eration upon generation. One felt
the spirits alive here with a mys-
tical energy compelling one to
linger.
Entering the humble building
alongside, the Hevra Kaddisha,
we discovered what may well be
the jewel of the ghetto. A sever-
al-floors display was of poignant
pictures painted by the children
imprisoned in Terezin. Of 15,000
children, only 100 came back.
These children reveal in their
vivid and colorful drawings vi-
sions beyond pain and degrada-
tiOn. The collection is available
in the book I Have Not Seen a
Butterfly Around Here which in-
cludes art, poems and the names
and fate of each young artist and
author.
Nearby, in the Pinkas syna-
gogue, one of several in the area,
we watched as an artist scribe
standing against a ladder was
painstakingly writing on the
walls of the synagogue the names
of all 77,297 Bohemian and
Moravian Jews who had per-
ished. First, the family name in
red followed by the names of
members within the family.
There is a powerful Jewish
presence in Prague. What Jews
value, from learning to spiritu-
ality to the arts, seems to echo
from one golden dome to the oth-
er. Although the actual number

JOURNEY page 98

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