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A Memorable Journey
To Refute Deniers
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MARLAINA KREININ SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH NEWS
uring a recent journey to
Eastern Europe, we found
Prague and Budapest to
be culturally dynamic eco-
nomically upward, and full of ro-
mantic vistas. But, without a
doubt, the Jewish tours and sear-
ing reminders of the Holocaust
were the most meaningful,
memorable part of the journey.
Driving from Dresen to
Prague, we were keyed with an-
ticipation, watching for signs of
the town Terezin some 60 kilo-
meters north of Prague. Finally,
a billboard on the highway read
"Jewish Museum."
As we entered the small town
front of a huge six-candled meno-
rah. It was dedicated in 199 1 by
Chaim Herzog, former President
of Israel.
On its right flank, a Russian
soldier's cemetery; on its left
flank the crematorium. Behind,
seeming slowly to merge with the
ground, were gray concrete slabs
naming the countries of the vic-
tims. Close by, a large wood out-
lined rectangle on the ground
was filled with little irregular
stones, placed there, we thought,
by visitors.
We entered the small, nonde-
script building of the crematori-
um. Two furnace cylinders
PHOTO BY AP PHOTO
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which historically used to be a
fortress garrison town, we noted
its drabness and felt a strange-
ness in the air — anguished spir-
its were not at rest here. We
looked for the Jewish Museum,
and were disappointed to find it
closed. It deserved a sign telling
its status.
Jewish refugee prisoners, at
first from Bohemia and Moravia,
later from all over Europe, were
kept in the ghetto town known
as the Big Fortress for varying
periods. The final destination for
most was Auschwitz. This so
called "model town", peoples by
artisans and intellectuals, was,
in truth, a sham showplace vis-
ited and sanctioned by the In-
ternational Red Cross.
Time hasn't erased its aura of
dejection. The paint was peeling
off the buildings like giant scabs.
We wondered how people could
actually live there now, as they
do.
We looked at the sign "Cre-
matorium." The road seemed to
elude us. Then we came to a long
lane leading up to a Jewish ceme-
tery with tiny grave markers in
containing four ovens dominat-
ed our view. On bench tables in
front were many glass vases of
daisy-mum flowers. We signed
the guest book and moved to the
back where on another low bench
visitors had informally placed
scraps of notes expressing their
feelings A door opened and we
walked back to a room filled with
German teen-agers watching a
video.
Something was missing here.
We felt a terrible disquiet. The
so called memorial was pitifully
inadequate. Its scale and content
were not equal to the memory of
those long departed Jews whom
luck had disfavored. I strongly
felt we must accord these people
a human dimension through
their stories. Contacting the sur-
vivors of Teresienstadt seemed
ever more vital and urgent.
In contrast, one mile up the
highway near the tour bus
square, we walked through the
Little Fortress — a place where
non-Jewish political prisoners
had been kept.
The main attraction here was
a well endowed and documented