don't have designated "honeymoon suites," for example. Nevertheless, newlyweds are genuinely treated like VIPs and receive special services. "Some hotels have so-called honeymoon packages," says Neger. "Your agent can arrange for special things like flowers, fruit baskets, choco- lates in the room. You may also get a more private table at dinner." The Isrotel chain, with several hotels in Eilat, goes one step further, offering a dinner on the house, free T-shirts, and other small gifts. Regardless of which hotel you choose, you're bound to be re- garded with affec- tion. Israelis love weddings and new- lyweds, so bring a wedding photo to pass around, just in case someone asks to see one. Couples usually average 10 days to two weeks to see Israel, splitting their between time Eilat, Tiberias and Jerusalem. Ester and Jay Caplan turned a trip to a family wedding in Israel into a three-week second honeymoon (the Baltimore couple were married 10 months and "first honeymooned" in St. Thomas). They mapped out their trip in advance so as not to waste precious time once in Israel, and chose Tel Aviv as their base and toured from there. "The hardest part is figuring out what you want to see," says Mr. Caplan. "A lot of people wait until they get over there, but you're still dealing with a foreign language and things can re- ally run rampant" r. The Western Wall is a holy and special site. Th e Siegels suggest avoiding Israel during Passover. They went to Is- rael without any reservations because they didn't want to feel tied down. But they ended up shut out of good accommodations. 'That's a big holiday time for Israelis, so the hotels are packed," says Sharon, a national radio sales rep. "And they're very strict about the rules of Passover— there was no alcohol, no elevators." JERUSALEM No matter how you plan your trip, Jerusalem is the must: see stop for all visitors. The holiest and most exotic of Israel's cities, it is a unique blend of the old and the new, the sacred and the secular. Ul- tramodern hotels stand watch over historical sites dating back to biblical times, while female soldiers stand alongside side-curled Chasidic Jews at bus stops. Jerusalem's winding streets, with their hard-to- pronounce names, can seem a little overwhelming. But armed with a good map and the comforting thought that most Israelis speak at least fair English, you'll get the hang of it in no time. Neger recommends a guided tour, which al- lows tourists to see the popular sites while avoiding any dangerous situations under the watchful eye of a trained tour guide. 'The tour guides know where it is safe to go," says Neger who also suggests travelers arrange tours in advance through their travel agents. HISTORY: Nearly 3,000 years old, Jerusalem has a wealth of his- Tel Aviv is a wonderful city to visit. Security belongings- at/dar'r's like the i mmediate- Allvom' 'w h o v is its Is stnick by the stthowt sartlity met/- slues taken br 111111 and the hnesse/. Arg- e/ - notes that 14:ilat has had it Terrofist allarks oawr only rarely, parth be- (ause citizens me so tigilant. To en- sun, your sqlet)' add th, sap) , othIN, toopenlle wig/ mahothies. A!- low Mem to eXtilllille your bags ma . Take the samepirrantions voll zondd on anv zweation. Don't leave zwIllables in your hotel mom or in fisr skirmishes on the Israel-Jordan- plain siOt in a rental car. Bearair of ian &idly-, but Mat towists should pidpockas, feel z•y sale them Tibefias, he says, has had no incidive that he is travre q: Ill madets. poo•y /11 or deviled girds. And don't hi hhhike. erusahm, he su=sts . taking guidtil tows hr safiity. STYLE: • 1-112113ES 1995 • 25