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28411 Northwestern Hwy.
at Beck Rd.
Suite 250 • Southfield
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Northwestern Highway • Between 12 & 13 Mlle Rds.
Southfield
Retail Value
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12 Mile Road
Beck Road
696
Really Enjoying
Culinary Roots
ETHEL G. HOFMAN SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH NEWS
I
was convinced that the rich,
multi-ethnic cuisine we call
Jewish food had been thor-
oughly explored, documented
and put on the back burner —
until I read Joan Nathan's latest
book, Jewish Cooking In Ameri-
ca (Knopf, 463 pgs., $30).
How wrong I was. With care,
passion and a splash of humor,
Ms. Nathan has gathered a trea-
sure trove of fascinating facts
along with more than 300 recipes
based on personal interviews
with three generations across the
country.
Every recipe has a story. The
inside cover, a collage of Yiddish
advertisements for Maxwell
House coffee, Spry, Quaker Oats,
among others, demonstrates the
economic strength of Jewish im-
migrant society. The book is a riv-
eting documentary of the
evolution of Jewish food and cul-
ture across the nation.
Jewish Cooking in America is
a voyage of discovery. It begins
with 23 Sephardic Jews' arrival
in New Amsterdam in 1654 and
continues right up to a present-
day generation's striving to find
its roots in a startling "newish"
Jewish food revival.
An explanation of the kosher
dietary laws also is anecdotal.
Vivid stories relate how early Pol-
ish and Russian immigrants
struggled to keep kosher, even
when it meant a monotonous diet
of salt herring, hard-boiled eggs
and rye bread (Levi Strauss was
known as an egg eater as he
crossed the country). Second- and
third-generation American. Jews
assimilated to varying degrees.
Of the recipes gathered from
Sephardic and Ashkenazic Jews
who settled in this country, some
are unusual and intriguing. Oth-
ers are familiar. All have been
tested by Ms. Nathan and are
clearly written and easy to follow.
A variety of theme menus are in-
cluded (Russian Brunch) as well
as a list of recommended dry
kosher wines. A glossary of Jew-
ish food terms from afikomen to
Yom Kippur is invaluable to
everyone who didn't grow up with
a Yiddish bubbie nearby.
VEGETABLE "BUNCH"
SOUP FROM
CHARLESTON (MEAT)
3 large (about 3 pounds) beef
shank bones with meat
1 white turnip, sliced
1/4 white cabbage, shredded
1/4 red cabbage, shredded
1/2 rutabagas, sliced
4 large carrots, cut into chunks
2 large onions, quartered
28-oz can or 2 pounds fresh
tomatoes, peeled
1 handful collard greens
1 stalk celery cut in chunks
2 teaspoons thyme
salt and freshly ground pepper to
taste
1. Cover shank bones with wa-
ter and simmer, covered, for
about 2 hours or until meat is
tender.
2. Add remaining ingredients
and simmer, covered, for at least
30 minutes, until vegetables are
cooked. Remove meat, and strain
soup through a vegetable mill.
Adjust seasonings. You can serve
the soup two ways. Either return
some of the vegetables to soup
with pieces of meat or use broth
alone, floating matzoh balls on
top.
Makes 8-10 servings.
CHICKEN WITH
VINEGAR SAUCE,
OLIVES, RAISINS, AND
GARLIC (MEAT)
1 4-pound chicken, cut in 8 pieces
1/2 lemon
2 cloves garlic plus 1 whole head
salt to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
1 pound little white onions
1/4 cup green olives
1/4 cup raisins
2 cloves
1 cinnamon stick
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon peppercorns
1/4 cup vinegar
1/4 cup Marsala or other sweet
wine
4 potatoes (optional)
1. Clean chicken with lemon.
Rub with garlic cloves and sprin-
kle with salt.
2. Heat olive oil in a large saute
pan or pot with a cover over medi-
um heat. Brown chicken on all
sides.
3. When the chicken is brown,
surround with the white onions,
olives, and raisins. Slice off the
top of the whole head of garlic
and place in the center with a
clove on each side and add the
cinnamon stick, bay leaves and
peppercorns. Sprinkle with vine-
gar and wine. (You might want
to tie cloves and peppercorns in
a cheesecloth.)
4. Cover and simmer over
very low heat for about 2 hours.
You can add the peeled and diced
potatoes to this dish for the last
15 to 20 minutes of cooking if you
like or serve with cooked rice.
CULINARY ROOTS page 74