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Zionist movement, with which I
had been affiliated for years.
According to the guide, more
than 150,000 Jews live in Hun-
gary, the majority of which reside
in Budapest. I was astonished —
mainly because I had assumed
most Hungarian Jews were killed
by the Nazis. Those who sur-
vived, I thought, lost their Jew-
ishness to the atheistic agenda of
communism.
But Hungary had recently rid
itself of communism. This prob-
ably accounts for its existing Jew-
ish community, I reasoned.
Curious, I decided to spend a few
days in Budapest visiting Jewish
organizations.
I ended up staying for two
weeks.
I had never been to Eastern
Europe, so I pictured it according
to the stereotype: a dismal place
where people trudge bleakly to

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When I left for Eu-
rope last summer,
I had no idea I
would end up
spending two
weeks in Bu-
dapest, Hungary.
My trip began
normally. Equip-
ped with a pair of
hiking boots, a Eurail Pass, a
sturdy backpack (that disinte-
grated three weeks into the trip),
and a dog-eared copy of Let's Go
Europe, I set out to conquer the
tourist traps.
As an afterthought, I packed
the Guide to Jewish Europe, a
small red-bound book that had
been sitting on my shelf for ages.
Wedged between a gigantic can-
dle I'd purchased in Amsterdam
and a crumpled map of the Lou-
vre, the book lay untouched at the
bottom of my backpack for weeks.

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Theodore Herzl was bar mitzvah at the Synagogue of the Heroes.

In Italy, I ran into two Cana-
dians who proclaimed with end-
less "aahs" the wonders of
Budapest. By that time, my mon-
ey was running low and my back-
pack was being held together
with extra-strength dental floss.
That night, in a cramped train
compartment shared with a snor-
ing German, two sweaty Italians
and a bespectacled Brit, I dug up
the Jewish guide. Curious to see
if any remnants of Judaism sur-
vived in Budapest, I started read-
ing.
Much to my surprise, the guide
listed more than 20 Jewish or-
ganizations, including Habonim-
Dror, an international Labor

Jeremy Shere is a 1994

University of Michigan
graduate working in Israel this
year. His future plans include
graduate studies in Hebrew
and Yiddish literature.

dehumanizing jobs. Eastern Eu-
rope is a Jewish graveyard, I
thought. I was partly right — and
partly wrong.
From the train window, the
station seemed overcast: gray
girders criss-crossed above the
concrete platform. A grime-en-
crusted window revealed cloud-
covered skies. Grimly, I grabbed
my backpack and wondered if I'd
made a mistake.
I hadn't. I stepped off the train
and the station came alive with
movement and color. People of all
ages, sizes and shapes sur-
rounded me with youth hostel
brochures. Picking one at ran-
dom, I hailed a taxi.
Too tired to see the city by
night, I arrived at the hostel, took
a hot shower (my first in a week),
then fell asleep.
The next morning, I set out for
the Synagogue of the Heroes on
Dohany Street where Theodore

