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Two Old Synagogues
In Heart Of France
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WENDY PECK SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH NEWS
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n the heart of Provence, less
than an hour apart, lie two of
the oldest synagogues in
France. Located in Cavaillon
and Carpentras are the only re-
maining 18th century syna-
gogues built for the Pope's Jews.
Visits offer a glimpse into the
past and lessons in French Jew-
ish history.
When the Jews were expelled
from the Kingdom of France in
1306, they fled to the indepen-
dent County of Provence, where
the Popes of Avignon offered
freedom of worship and safe res-
idence. By the first half of the
17th century, French Jews had
become concentrated in Avi-
gnon, Carpentras, Cavaillon and
Isle Sur Sorge. They were ob-
ligated to live on a single street,
known as the "carriere", which
was completely sealed by a
locked gate at night. Jewish life
revolved around the synagogue,
mikvah and matzah bakery, all
located on this one street.
The remnants of the "car-
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The facade of the Cavaillon synagogue.
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riere" are clearly visible in the
Cavaillon synagogue, which was
built above the gateway to the
old carriere. The 18th century
synagogue is located on the
same site as the original 15th
century synagogue, which
burned. At the time construction
began in 1772, approximately
200 Jews lived on the Rue He-
braique.
The entrance to the syna-
gogue is one flight up an exteri-
or stair, behind elaborate
aqua-painted grillwork. The He-
braic year of construction, 5534
(1774), is inscribed above the
blue paneled wooden doors. The
small square sanctuary is a ro-
cocco surprise: white walls
trimmed with ornate ocher and
sky blue molding. Above,
salmon-colored walls are lit by
high clerestory windows.
The ark is surrounded by
elaborate wrought-iron railings
and gilded carved columns.
When opened, the ark doors re-
veal painted scenes of the Ten