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of Jewish journalists. The gray cutting, a concert. Between 20
haired, intense Father Musial, and 40 people attend.
In addition, the center hosts
who talked to us for more than
visitors and holds a
an hour, while
lively Jewish festi-
somehow, at the
val. Almost all of
same time manag-
the volunteers who
ing to eat his her-
put on the festival
ring dinner, said
are not Jewish.
there is no racism
Janusz Makuch,
in Poland, because
the enthusiastic di-
it is an all-white
rector of the center,
country. And there
proudly shows us
is no overt anti-
Jews I hied in
plans for the next
Semitism, but it is
two phases of de-
still below the sur-
Pol and.
velopment. He, too,
face.
is not Jewish.
However, he told
Tod ay,
Warsaw, a city of
us, 'The young peo-
far fewer Jews
some where
ple are now inter-
than, say, South-
ested in Judaism
n 7,000 field, sustains the
because they feel it
Menorah, a new
is part of their her-
and 30,0 00 Jews large kosher restau-
itage. In God's
rant. And there is a
plan, it is impossi-
year-round Yiddish
ble to imagine the
theater. Students
world without
not only take acting,
Jews."
The Center for Jewish Culture but also study Jewish history and
in Krakow is an example of the Yiddish. A quarter of the actors in
valiant attempt to preserve what the Yiddish theater are Catholic;
little is left of Jewish life. Con- most all of the audience is not Jew-
struction of the architecturally ish. Prior to the moving produc-
stunning building in white, green tion we saw, there were speeches
and gold was started in the and awards to some Righteous
1980s. The first section opened Gentiles for their bravery during
the war.
last November.
Yet, the Poles have yet to erect
The center provides a contin-
uous series of cultural events, a marker on the house where Os-
runs a small library and cafe and kar Schindler lived or at the site
prepares and distributes publi- of his enamel factory, where he
cations. Each night there is a dif- saved the lives of scores of Jews.
Such is the enigma of
ferent cultural event: a lecture,
an auction, a film, Jewish paper Poland. ❑

Poland Stands Proud

A visit finds its castles, parks and culture
have withstood an inglorious past.

oland's countryside looks
like a set from Yentl, with
horse-drawn wagons with
thick rubber tires almost
as common as trucks. Men and
women still guide large horses
as they plow the rich, dark soil.
Tractors are beyond the reach
of many poor farmers who no
longer get a subsidy from the
government.
Somehow, though, the gov-
ernment managed to finally re-
build the magnificent Royal
Castle in Warsaw, which dates
back to the turn of the 13th cen-
tury. Managing to withstand
most of the vicissitudes of an in-
glorious history, the castle was
destroyed by the Nazis. Fortu-
nately, this magnificent castle
has been painstakingly rebuilt
and now looks exactly as it did
under Poland's most famous
king, Stanislaus Poniatowski,
at the end of the 18th century.
King Poniatowski also built
the marvelous Lazienki Park.

p

Although somewhat unkept and
run down, with stucco peeling
from most buildings, this is tru-
ly a lovely spot, with beautiful
palaces perched alongside small
peaceful lakes.
We were most fortunate to
have attended a Chopin concert
one evening at the exquisite Wa-
ter Palace. The sound of the 70-
year-old Steinway in the same
small room that Chopin,
Poland's most renowned com-
poser, performed, was impres-
sive.
Castles and palaces are
spread all over Poland and are
in various states of preservation.
In Krakow, the former capital,
the majestic Wawel Castle dom-
inates an embankment of the
Vistula River. Although par-
tially rebuilt, the walls are a di-
gest of pre-Romanesque, Gothic
and Renaissance architecture.
Its dark paintings capture Pol-
ish nobility.
— Charles A. Buerger