The Enigma Of Poland Polish interest in Jewish culture is on the increase, but finding actual Jews is another matter. PHOTOS AND TEXT BY CHARLES A. BUERGER PUBLISHER 34 Thus, the enigma of Poland. A little over 50 years ago, there were 3 1/2 million Jews living in Poland, at the time the second Left: With a unique largest concentration of Jews in eagerness and the world. One-third of the resi- excitement that dents of Warsaw were Jewish. There were 304 synagogues in would make any the Kazimierz district, the small Sunday school stately area where Jewish cul- teacher proud, this tural life once flourished in group of Krakow. Before World War II, all non-Jewish 56,000 of the 300,000 of Krakow's inhabitants were Jewish. students learns Now, only somewhere between Hebrew in a public 7,000 and 30,000 Jews, mostly Polish school. over age 60, remain in all of Poland. And there is much con- Below: Janina Gorz, cern over whether or not the country can sustain even this a non-Jew, keels small number. with pride over her Jewish Poland today is the tiny class' success in indistinguishable form of what mastering Hebrew. once was a great ice sculpture; the hellish flames from the Holo- caust have practically vaporized Jewish life here. Sadly, many of the Jews who had re- turned to Poland af- ter the war again became victims. In 1946, in the small city of Kielce, 42 Jews were killed. In 1968, in a Commu- rakow — As nist-inspired reac- we enter the tion to both internal classroom, the economic problems students jump and Israel's stunning to their feet 1967 Six-Day War and sing. The victory, there was a room had been purge of Jews from freshly paint- the government. Un- ed blue and white and Israeli derstandably, most posters were neatly taped to the of the remaining walls. Jania Gorz, their teacher, and the Polish director of tourism. Jews left for Sweden, Israel or the beams proudly at her well-be- Ms. Gorz, a warm, friendly United States. haved, enthusiastic 16-year-olds. woman with a smile framing her Journalist and one-time gov- A typical visit to a well-run Pol- rosy cheeks, is not Jewish. A bi- ernment spokesperson Malgo- ish Jewish day school? Hardly. ologist by training, she started rzata Niezabitowska, who wrote There are no Jews in this pub- the course because she is "fasci- Remnants, a book about 'the last lic school, the European equiva- nated by the richness of Jewish Jews of Poland," believes she may lent of an American junior college, culture." have been premature. or this Hebrew language and cul- "But is there a revival?" she A member of a touring group ture class. In fact, the only Jews of journalists asks the children asks herself. "Well, there may that anyone in the class has ever why they would take Hebrew and have been 24 involved 'young' met are the occasional Jewish vis- want to learn about Israel. Shy- Jews a few years ago and now itors from Israel and the United ly, in halting English, they say there are 75. That's three times States, including a group of Jew- they like to study Jewish histo- as many, but it really doesn't ish journalists on a recent tour ry, that it is a new course, or that mean too much." arranged by Joseph Jacobs Inc., they want to learn tolerance. The But, she believes Jews can and the New York-based Jewish me- Hebrew course is an elective and should return to Poland to ex- dia rep firm; LOT, Polish Airlines; quite popular. plore their roots and culture. Or K K K