11 11111110110mine.

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not far from Zurich. It was only
a 15-minute ride from Baden to
the oldest Jewish cemetery in
Switzerland.
I had visited the cemetery on
a previous trip; and, especially
after my excursion in Zurich, I
decided to revisit it. Accompa-
nying me was Elizabeth
Mueller, a guide for Baden. She
had given me a tour of Baden
and environs on my last visit
and readily agreed to join me in
visiting the cemetery again.
Setting out from Baden, we
were soon on a country road,
driving past peaceful farmlands
as we headed towards the vil-
lage of Legnau.
Soon we recognized the old
gate up on a hill set back from
the road. There was the plaque
near the entrance, announcing
the date the cemetery was es-
tablished —1750.
Inside, this cemetery was
very different from the one in
Zurich. No lush flowers here, no
modern tombstones and no
panoramic view. Instead, there
were weathered old tombstones,
some of them almost completely
covered with ivy.
Even when we could not read
the names, we knew that those
buried here include the earliest
Jewish settlers in Switzerland,

The oldest Jewish
cemetery in
Switzerland is just
outside Baden.

who had once lived in the two
nearby villages, Endigen and
Lengnau, at a time when Jews
were allowed nowhere else in
Switzerland.
For a time they also were not
allowed to bury their dead in
Switzerland. So they traveled
north and created a burial
ground on the Rhine River.
Then, in 1750, when they were
gained burial rights in Switzer-
land, this cemetery was estab-
lished midway between the two
villages.
Looking at the tombstones,
many of them crammed close
together — quite unlike the
spacious layout in Zurich, we
say many names and dates —
but often, the same unfamiliar
names recurred: Bloch, Bollag,
Guggenheim.
One of them, Guggenheim, is
familiar in the United States as
well. The wealthy philan-
thropist Solomon Guggenheim,
for whom the Guggenheim Mu-
seum in New York is named,
was from a Swiss Jewish fam-
ily who once lived in these vil-
lages.
Seeing the Guggenheim
tombstones here was a re-
minder of the vast progress this
family had made, just as the
CEMETERIES page 106

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