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100

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Scottish Delights

ETHEL HOFMAN SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH NEWS

I

n Glasgow, Scotland, the
6,000-strong Jewish com-
munity continue another tra-
ditions started by their
immigrant grandparents. Their
Jewish provisions and goodies
for the table most likely have
been bought from Michael Mor-
risons — the oldest kosher deli
in Scotland, a shop (never a
store, in Glasgow) passed from
mother to father to son for three
generations. To Glasgow Jews,
Morrisons has been a household
word for close to 73 years.
"It's not really a 'deli,' " ex-
plained Ian
Morrison, 53,
the jolly, affa-
ble present
owner, who
speaks with a
delightful
Scottish burr.
"It's more like
the old-fash-
ioned corner
shop that
sells every-
thing from
toothpaste to
the makings
of your whole
dinner — all
kosher, and
the tooth-
paste has fluoride! We don't
have such an extensive range
of meats as an American deli.
There's no restaurant — and we
don't do dinners!" he chuckled.
No matter. For the Glasgow
Jewish homemaker, who Mr.
Morrison insisted still prefers
to do the final cooking at home,
there's an incredible number of
kosher fixin's from which to
choose. In the small front shop,
where a dozen people is a
crowd, shelves and freezer cas-
es are jammed with kosher
products. .
At a glance, there's frozen
chickens from Empire (that's
right — the U.S. kosher poultry
company), Rokeach salad dress-
ings, Osem soups and sauce
mixes, pasty-pink wursts (Yid-
dish for salami but with none of
the flavor or texture we're ac-
customed to,) smoked Scottish
salmon, petcha (calves foot jel-
ly poured around hard-boiled
egg halves — you either love it
with a passion, or hate it),
bagels and the sweet and sour
rye bread that Glasgow is fa-
mous for.
Corned beef is called "salt
beef" and is more brownish
than pink, and pastrami is
made from turkey. Only pick-
led tongue is similar to the
American product. All deli
meats are kept strictly separate
in a refrigerated meat case.

For Chanukah, latkes,
doughnuts and cheesecakes
come in fresh daily. "Almost
everything is imported from Is-
rael and America" noted Mr.
Morrison, "except for the baked
goods which are baked by a Pol-
ish baker at Star Bakery and
the wursts, tongue and salt beef
sent in from Manchester, Eng-
land.
According to ECC (European
Common Market) regulations,
everything must be now be pre-
packaged before it comes into
the store. That's a far cry from
the yom toys
(holidays) in
the 1940s,
"when on my
way home
from school I
literally sat
by the com-
munal bake-
house door to
ensure that
Morrisons
would be
able to get all
the bread
and cakes to
fill their cus-
tomers' or-
ders," he
added.
"No, Morrison is not the fam-
ily name," laughed Mr. Morri-
son, anticipating the question.
"My grandparents, Leah and Is-
rael, met and got married in
Glasgow in 1920. They had
come from the Ukraine and
grandpa's name was complete-
ly unpronounceable." The Mor-
rison name originated when
Israel, applying for a grocery
store job, picked it off of a street
sign when his prospective boss
became frustrated at not being
able to pronounce the family's
real surname.
Marlene Morrison, Ian's wife,
agreed to share some family
recipes.
Included is a British special-
ty, fried gefilte fish, from the
same chopped fish mix as the
boiled variety, was made and
sold by Leah Morrison in the
very first shop. This is tradi-
tionally cooked on Friday to
serve on the Sabbath when, for
the observant Jew, no cooking
is allowed. Fried in oil, symbol-
ic of Chanukah, they are deli-
cious served cold with a dollop
of horseradish.

FRIED GEFILTE FISH,
BRITISH STYLE
1 pound haddock fillet
1 pound cod fillet
1 medium onion, peeled
and cut in 1-inch chunks
DELIGHTS page 102