Wear your
pride and joy.
preserved, the grave re-
mained off limits to Jews.
It was not until 1988 that
the Soviet government, then
experiencing the first
awakenings of perestroika,
allowed the first group of
250 Jews to visit the grave.
Since then, the number of
Jews visiting the site has
grown every year. About
4,000 Jewish pilgrims were
expected for this Rosh
Hashanah.
Air Ukraine added extra
flights on its Kiev-New York
route for what is known as
"Uman week," and dozens of
charters came in from Israel.
Visiting Jews seemingly
took over Uman for the
week, turning it upside
down, but providing an in-
credible boost to the local
economy.
A local organizing com-
mittee, which had been here
since the beginning of the
summer, rented out dozens
of apartments in the housing
complex that overlooks the
grave to accommodate all
the visitors.
Local banks set up mobile
currency-exchange centers
in parked cars near the
gravesite, while hundreds of
locals were selling souvenirs
or trinkets of all sorts to the
tourists.
Many local residents were
able to make the equivalent
of several months' salary
during the course of the
week.
The main kitchen had over
100 Israelis as well as 20
Ukrainians working there
preparing kosher meals. In
contrast to past years, most
of the food was not flown in
from Israel but came from
Ukraine.
A shochet, or ritual
slaughterer had been
slaughtering meat for a
month in advance.
Perhaps most impressive-
ly, an entire synagogue —
the first to be built in
Ukraine since before the
Bolshevik Revolution —was
put up in just three-and-a-
half weeks by a local con-
tracting company working
overtime.
In addition, several
mikvahs, or ritual baths,
were built and were
operating during the week.
For Itzhak Goluboy, a
smiling, blond, 13-year-old
Jewish boy living in Uman,
the event takes on another
significance.
For a week, instead of be-
ing a tiny community of 50
Jews, Uman is transformed
into a thriving Jewish city.
"When I came by the grave
and saw so many Jews in
Uman, I got very excited,"
said Goluboy.
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109