Iv

=

microphones, or on pre-
recorded spiels that resound
through the streets:
"Any cassette, ten
shekels, ten shekels, unbe-
lievable!" "Cold drink, cold
drink, lemon, orange, cola,
one shekel, what's one
shekel? one shekel!"
From the food stands, the
smell of boiling falafel
grease and dripping shwar-
ma fat, on a hot, crowded
summer day, can be over-
whelming. The damp floor
and stench of urine in the
men's room has a related
effect.
There are four pornogra-
phy stores here — branches
of Israel's "Sex Style" chain
— more than in any other
single place in the country.
The area surrounding the
station also has the coun-
try's greatest concentration
of crime and drug-dealing.
Israeli officials have long
considered the station a
national embarrassment
and have wanted to see it
replaced. To meet this
demand, a developer bought
a huge piece of land on
Levinsky Street, about a

Tel Aviv's old
Central Bus
Station is a prime
example of Israel's
uproarious past.

J

half-a-mile from the old sta-
tion, and obtained the gov-
ernment's approval to build
a new one.
Four years later the cor-
nerstone was laid and con-
struction began.
This was in 1967.
After 26 years of bank-
ruptcies, lawsuits, feasibili-
ty studies, rejections and
reconsiderations, the new
station is nearly finished, or
at least close enough so that
the buses can begin run-
ning. (The old station is due
to continue operating at a
minimal level for another
year-and-a-half, by which
time the Levinsky Street
station should be completed,
and the old one will close for
good.)
The new station is over-
whelming in its own way.
It's so big: the building cov-
ers roughly six square
blocks, stands eight stories
high, and has nearly 2.5-
million square feet of floor
space. As a shopping center,
it will be by far the coun-
try's biggest: more than
1,000 stores are planned to
open, including 11 cinemas,
two McDonald's, a Pizza

BUS page 24

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23

