Shochtim (kosher slaughterers) examine kosher meat at Combelt in Detroit. just look at the price," says Eugene Feldman of Dexter-Davison Kosher Meats. "They are going away from it at the same time that the goyim, for health reasons, are corn- ing into it. We couldn't make it without the gen- tiles now." Adds Paul Worone, a longtime kosher butcher employed at Harvard Row Kosher Meats, "We've become a poultry market." Both Harvard . Row owner Johnny Katz and Dexter-Davison's Mr. Feldman estimate that meat accounts for less than half their busi- ness these days. Health concerns about red meat have cut con- sumption in the United - . States during the last decade. Many are eating far more poultry and far less meat. According to Mr. Flatt of Cornbelt, at one time his company slaughtered up to 500 head of cattle a day. On one of his biggest days in May, 137 cattle were slaughtered. Some 120 a day is now average. In 1989, the Detroit Area Jewish Population Study conducted by the Jewish Federation deter- mined that some 96,000 persons in metropolitan Detroit consider them- selves Jewish. About 19 percent said they had kosher dishes at home. So the independent kosher butchers are fighting both the drop in demand and the competi- tion from Farmer Jack. "We're ringing up sales," says Jack Cohen, "but by the end of the week all we're doing is making a living. The light bill used to be $89 or $99. Now it's $500. The water bill is now $200." Morris Flatt of Cornbelt has the same complaint. "We paid as much as 84 cents a pound this year for live- stock. At one time it was 16.5 cents." Mr. Flatt says he makes money by selling thousands of pounds of kosher beef to Chicago and East Coast markets. Detroit, in corn- parison, is a small shtetl (village), he says. "The butchers have a problem," Mr. Flatt says. "They sell a few pounds of beef, chicken and veal — nothing else. Now the supermarket, on the other hand, has many more items to sell. They can sell kosher meat below cost and make money back on other items the customer buys." He said the two "fronts" from a cow weigh approximately 400 pounds. But only 250 of the 400 is saleable. "The butcher has to make all his money on that 250 pounds," Mr. Flatt says, "while Farmer Jack has thousands of other items to sell." Meanwhile, Mr. Flatt has his own costs. He employs two kosher slaughterers at Cornbelt, religious men who are properly trained and supervised. But, when kosher demand rises — around the holidays — or if a slaughterer is ill or takes vacation, Mr. Flatt imports a replacement from Cleveland or Chicago. He has to pay travel and hotel expens- es as well as salaries, and that is reflected in the price. Bennett Feinman is part of the family-owned, c" non-kosher E & L Meats - in southwest Detroit. A >_ "" Cornbelt customer, he --I also points out some of the problems. "Cornbelt can only sell the front portion to the A