Israel: On And Off The Tour The inside of Judith Rove's two-room caravan home. An Ethiopian woman walks a trail to a convenience store. hood Givat Hamatos was carved out of rocks on the outskirts of Jerusalem. rocky land it's all built on are what one sees from the outside. Occasionally, a garden with a plot of dark land- scaped soil dramatically speaks out from the neighborhoods. Five hundred families call Givat Hamatos home. Over half are Russian olim, the rest are Ethiopians and Israelis who were on the verge of homelessness. The average stay is three to five years. The pur- pose is job training, learning Hebrew, educat- ing the children and building a pathway to life as an Israeli. For Judith Rove, the life is coming hard. A midwife in Ethiopia, she cleans houses here for a living. Divorced, she lives with her 5-year-old daughter, Rifka. Learning the language is her biggest challenge. She wants, though, to learn as quickly as she can so she can become a nurse. "My life is good," she said. "I'm satisfied. The caravan here is like home. My dream is to be here. But now I strug- gle." She offers soft drinks and snacks from her kitchen. A neighbor, a young man, comes over with an English-Hebrew dictionary. Doors in the community seem to be open to visitors, for con- versations over tea and coffee. Soon, a group of four other women stop by. With them is a friend from Ethiopia. She wears a gray business suit. She is a Christian, the wife of a judge; she is consid- ered very wealthy. She brings news of home, and some gifts. From across the way comes the smell of onions and meat frying in a skillet. A blond-haired child races from the front door with a teasing laugh back to her grand- mother. A knock results in an invitation. Here, there are no tapestries, but instead bookshelves and a much more modern environment, complete with a color television and a VCR. Ludmillia Gossin speaks almost no English. She says in HebrEw that she's been here for two years. That she's 57 years old hurts her in the job market. In Kiev, she was an indus- trial economist. "Lo optisma," she says in a kind of combination, Hebrew, Russian and English. She hugs her granddaughter, Natalia, and wipes a tear from