"Serving the Republic before there was a An artistic community, Manchester Village Republic" is the motto at the Equinox. and is filled with galleries and antique stores. Next indeed, in its earliest pre-revolutionary in- door to the Equinox, the Johnny Appleseed carnation in 1769, the Equinox, then known bookstore, with its thousands of books on as Marsh Tavern, was but a stoic, two-story Vermont lore and outdoor activities is about - wooden structure in the nascent hamlet of as far away from a chain as you can get Next Manchester. It quickly became a gathering to that is the quaint American Museum of Fly spot for American Revolutionaries, includ- Fishing where reels, rods and flies owned by ing the famed Green Mountain Boys who the likes of Daniel Webster, Dwight Eisen- used to meet here to discuss matters of hower, Bing Crosby, and Ernest Hemingway treachery. When owner William Marsh sided are on display. Further afield (mercifully) are with the British, his tavern gained the dubi- the outlets— Anne! Calvin! Ralph! Donna! ous distinction of becoming the first prop- Liz! erty in America seized to support the RESERVATION INFORMATION: The independence effort. Equinox, Historic Rte. 7A, Manchester Village, Very early in the 1800s the tavern was Vermont 05254, phone 802-362-4700/ reser- joined to a hotel that had been built beside vations 800-362-4747. Rates per night, double it. That was the first of 17 major architectur- occupancy, range from $145 to $215, with pre- al changes that would take place throughout mium rooms (spacious moms with a view, and the Equinox's checkered history. In those including bathrobes, fine soaps and the like) early years and in this century too, the hotel rentingfiv $260 and suites for $325 to $475. frequently changed hands and names. It was The Equinox Hotel became famous in 1863 when Mary Todd Lincoln spent the summer there. Modified and full American Plan options are variously known as Thaddeus Munson's Inn, available. Widow Black's Inn, the Orvis Inn, and the Taconic. It was a resort of no particular note until 1863, when Mary Todd Lincoln spent The Mt the summer there with her two sons. Promis- Washington Hotel— another vintage, all- ing to return for another season with the pres- white, turn-of-the-century grand hotel with a ident in tow, she departed for Washington, stately facade, sweeping veranda, rocking leaving behind a newly important Equinox chairs, and geraniums— dwells at the base which could now advertise as a "premier of Mt Washington, the highest peak in New summer resort" A special suite was imme- Hampshire. But where else would suit the diately constructed and readied for President largest wooden structure in New England, Lincoln, but assassination prevented his ever with 320 rooms and a National Historic Land- enjoying it. Still, the soldiered on. mark designation. At that time, the hotel was owned and op- The centerpiece of the 35-foot high, chan- erated by the Orvis family, whose shop and deliered lobby is the walk-in fireplace, where catalogue business, famous for fishing and a fire blazes in mornings and evenings to ward hunting gear, is still located in Manchester. off the chill mountain air. The Hotel has its Beleaguered by the Depression, the Orvis- own post office and zip code. And ince a cruise es sold the Equinox in 1937. Years later, the ship, it includes a lower concourse, called hotel fell into a state of disrepair and by 1972 Stickney Street, with a gift shop, clothing was declared structurally unsound and store, beauty salon, flower shop, ice cream closed abruptly. It was saved from demoli- shop, tennis and golf shop. The hotel's own tion when it was added that year to the Na- six-piece ensemble provides music for din- tional Register of Historic Places. ing and dancing in the main dining room, After thorough archaeological and historical study and a $20 million restoration, it re- which can seat 700, and where even the panes in the tall windows measure an astounding opened as a year-round resort in 1985. More recently, new owners, which include the same four-by-eightfeet Those who dine in this grand, turn-of-the-century room still dress for din- Guinness beer company that owns the famed Gleneagles Hotel in Scotland, pumped an- ner and never need worry about getting stuck at a corner table; first owner Joseph Stick- other other $9 million into it and the Equinox made yet another comeback last summer. This fi- ney, who built the hotel in 1902, had the room designed octagonally specifically to avoid nal renovation was an arduous process: For three-months, one worker did nothing but such a slight. screw down ancient, creaking floorboards. Some 322 storm windows were installed and In 1944, 700 delegates from 44 nations gathered in an historic conference that laid the ugly acoustic ceiling tiles were removed. Axminister carpeting was ordered from England, ground rules for postwar international monetary order and spawned the World Bank and the walls were painted and papered, and the entrance was transformed into a bright and im- the International Monetary Fund. The hotel is already preparing for the fiftieth anniversary pressive area. Another $3.5 million went into the golf course, which was redesigned by of the Bretton Woods Monetary Conference, which will take place next summer when the course architect Rees Jones (the Congressional, Baltustrol) and rechristened Gleneagles World Bank, among others, will return for a conference and gala ball. to reflect ties to the course by the same name in Scotland. For now, there's no shortage of things to do: 27 holes of PGA- championship golf, tennis The Equinox now offers 163 rooms in the main building, arkd 27 in adjacent town-house on a dozen red-day courts, horseback riding, swimming in heated indoor and outdoor pools, units that have fireplaces, balconies, and full kitchens. Rooms in the hotel are oversized with jogging on six marked trails, hiking and mountain biking on numerous trails in the White tall windows and decorated with the country ambience of the Green Mountain state but Mountain National Forest, fly fishing in the Ammonoosuc River or nearby lakes, croquet, with creature comforts such as cable TV and in-room movies. There are ten elegant suites, horseshoes, volleyball, badminton, racquetball, and more. each with a different decor; two have cupolas transformed into lovely sitting rooms. Nearby, the Mount Washington cog railway, the world's fast mountain climbing cog, still The Marsh Tavern, expanded in the recent renovation, features traditional New England looks and works just as it did when it was built in 1869. Its wooden cars are pushed by bright- dishes such as Shepherd's pie and rock Cornish game hen. The dark green woodwork, red- ly painted, noisy, steam-belching engines. Because the grade is 37 percent on the steepest and-black checked flannel wall coverings, area rugs, fireplaces, and Windsor chairs epito- part of the slope, which means that a passenger in the front is fourteen feet higher than a mize historic Vermont Also part of the inn, The Colonnade is one of the most formal places person sitting in the rear seat, the three-hour round-tip ride to the summit and back can to eat in all of Vermont and boasts dramatic views of Mt Equinox. be a hair-raising experience. At the Equinox, deluxe golf packages indude unlimited play on the 18-hole, par 71 course. The highest peak in the Northeast, Mt Washington is, at 6,288 feet, a dwarf by world- There's tennis on three har-tru courts, swimming in indoor and outdoor heated pools, wide standards. When it comes to weather, though, it's a giant. Some of the worst weath- biking and hiking on mountain trails, fly fishing in Battenkill. A spa features an assort- er in the world happens on its suminit, which lies at the confluence of three major continental ment of massages, wraps, facials, exercise classes, nutritional counseling, and cardiovas- storm tracks. Winds of hurricane force occur on average of two out of every three days; cular machines. THE MOUNT WASHINGTON HOTEL AND RESORT 26 • SUMMER 1993* STYLE -