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Established 1920

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Updating The
Kosher Kitchen

1844 W. Woodward
Birmingham

1 block North of 14 Mile Rd

540-9548

"We Pay Cash or Fine
Clothing and
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HOURS:
Mon.-Sat. 12-6

A

s I leafed through Ani-
ta Hirsch's book Our
Food: The Kosher
Kitchen Updated (Dou-
bleday, 1992 $25), it seemed
fitting that it can be combined
with Yom Ha'atzma'ut.
Yom Ha'atzmaut is ob-
served on the fifth day of
Iyar, this year it was on
April 26. It is a celebration
of the day the State of
Israel came into being.
Besides the singing and
dancing in the streets and
flag-waving from balconies,
the influences of old and
new cultures are reflected
in the foods eaten.
The modern Israeli menu is
a healthy, tasty mish-mash
inspired by the recent influx
of North African and Russian
Jews and past generations of
Eastern Europe immigrants.
There is also a new, national
concern for good health. Al-
most all dairy products are
available with reduced fat,
grains are used extensively
and fresh produce, which has
always been cheap, is used
abundantly.
Ms. Hirsch's book is influ-
enced by her heritage (Ro-
manian, Latvian and
Lithuanian), but as a regis-
tered dietitian with a full-time
career, she has modified the
generally heavy cuisine most
Americans regard as kosher.
Although she grew up in an
observant Jewish home where
gribenes (crisp, browned
chicken skin and onions) and
salty pickled herring were
standard daily fare, Ms.
Hirsch insists — and goes on
to prove — that today's
kosher meals can be as deli-
cious as they are low in fat
and cholesterol.
In the introduction Ms.
Hirsch chats, informatively,
of how she keeps a healthy,
kosher kitchen, getting the
most from appliances such as
the microwave and food
processor. With nutritional
expertise, she explains the
fundamentals of adapting tra-
ditionally fatty foods into ap-
petizing dishes that may be
eaten daily without guilt,
rather than saving for a spe-
cial occasion. Nutritional
breakdown is given for each
recipe, an added plus when
you're watching calories, fat
and sodium intake.
Readers will learn how to
flavor with herbs and spices,

rather th-an salt. Low-fat
dairy products are substitut-
ed for high-fat creams; fresh,
wholesome produce, poultry
and grains are quickly trans-
formed into delicious cos-
mopolitan cuisine. The recipes
add up to a new approach to
healthy, kosher food.
Through photographs, past
and present, Our Food pro-
vides a warm insight into the
extended family of parents,
grandparents, aunts and un-
cles, a situation many of us
can relate to. It's easy to un-
derstand how this closeknit
environment has motivated
Ms. Hirsch to continue the Ju-
daic tradition of "good and
plenty." The sharing of cook-
ing techniques, shopping tips
and substitutions without giv-
ing up on tradition and fine
taste makes this an essential
book for every kosher cook.
Not least, the artistic pho-
tography of Alison Mikscvh
combined with Anita Hirsch's
reminiscences make Our
Food: The Kosher Kitchen Up-
dated a good read.
The following recipes are
from Our Food: The Kosher
Kitchen Updated (Doubleday,
1992).

SWEET POTATO AND
TOMATO SOUP
This soup contains three
vegetables high in beta
carotene: carrots, sweet pota-
toes and tomatoes.
1 tablespoon canola or
corn oil
1 cup finely chopped
onion
1 stalk celery, finely
chopped
1 carrot, peeled and
finely chopped
2 sweet potatoes, peeled
and diced
1-16 oz. can, no-salt
added, stewed tomatoes
2 cups water
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

KOSHER page 112