110111 Israel. Still Life I In Israel, a siren blows on Yom Hashoah — and everyone's thoughts turn to the Holocaust. LARRY DERFNER ISRAEL CORRESPONDENT f you want to know what it's like to live in a Jewish country, be here on Yom Hashoah — at 10 a.m., to be exact. You may have heard about it, or experienced it during a visit — a siren blows for two minutes, and everyone stops whatever he's doing and stands silently at attention. This year, I positioned myself at one of the busiest corners of Tel Aviv, Allenby and King George Streets, at the en- trance to the outdoor Carmel Market, to watch. The siren doesn't start with a blast — it's a steady drone, not a very loud one — and with all the background noise of traffic and people, a person doesn't notice it at first unless he's waiting for it. Within a few seconds, though, all the traffic stops; people stop talking and all you can hear, on one of the busiest corners of Tel Aviv, is the siren. Against this still life, any- body going on about his busi- ness stands out sharply. An elderly couple kept walking through the Cannel Market, until the woman noticed that everybody else was standing still, and she grabbed her hus- band's arm and they stopped. A good 15 or 20 seconds into the siren, an old man wearing shorts was still riding his bi- cycle down Allenby. I thought, is he being blasphemous, is he mentally ill? Apparently not — just lost in his thoughts. At the corner of King George he finally noticed and braked his bicycle. As the siren wailed, I watched the faces. I did not de- tect any grief or anything that looked like mourning, not even anything I would call intro- spection. When the siren end- ed, the cars and buses and people immediately began moving again, and everybody's expressions looked complete- ly normal. I myself had felt nothing. In previous years, I remember seeing pictures in my mind from the Holocaust. Maybe it was something I had seen in a documentary; maybe I was via Victims of the Holocaust are remembered. thinking about my parents, how they had escaped from Paris in 1940 or was seeing a picture of the little Polish shtetl they had left behind three years earlier. I don't know; I can't re- member exactly. I'm not sure if I had willed myself to con- centrate for two minutes on the Holocaust or if the mental images had come of their own accord. Maybe, during my first year or two in Israel, I had shed some tears; maybe later I had felt some sadness. This time, as I said, I felt nothing and was thinking about nothing except what I saw on the street. And since nobody appeared to be moved or thoughtful — and since I certainly wasn't moved — I took this to mean that there was some emptiness about this Yom Hashoah; that the two minutes of silence, after decades of repetition, had be- come rote. What did this mean? I talked to about 10 people, and got a surprise. With the exception of one newspaper vendor in the market — a big guy with four gold chains around his neck —I who said, without apology, that his mind had been blank during the siren, everyone I talked to said they had indeed been think- ing about the Holocaust for those two minutes. They were a good cross-sec- tion of Israelis — teen-agers and adults, immigrants and sabras, hip-looking and square. A couple of sexily- dressed girls said they saw one man who did not get out of his car to stand, who had kept smoking his cigarette. "It was disgusting," said one of the girls. "He couldn't stand up for two minutes out of re- For two minutes, Israelis are united in by the memory of the six million. spect?" A Russian immigrant said a shiver ran through him as he thought about his grandfa- ther killed by the Nazis. An- other man, born in Afghanistan, said he'd thought about the Holocaust-related things he had seen on a visit to Munich and about the sto- ries he had read by Isaac Ba- shevis Singer. "There were tears in my eyes," he said. He was wearing sunglass- es, and I wouldn't have seen the tears even if he'd been standing in front of me. There seemed to be something sym- bolic about this. People all around me were in mourning, or at least lost in thought about the Holocaust, but I — straining to see them through a reporter's eyes, in- stead of being with them by looking inside myself — had seen nothing. On Sheinkin Street, the bo- hemian capital of Israel, Arik Bernstein looked like the kind of guy who would give me the cynic's view of Yom Hashoah — he was wearing regulation black Levis, a loose white shirt and the fashionable intellec- tual's round, wire-rim glasses. But no, he also had been in that certain place. "I saw pictures, pictures I've seen before. And I thought about what I always think about during the siren — that this is the only country that has these two minutes when everybody...is part of a corn- ISRAEL page 62