, Latkes, Special Sauce
00' Complement Holiday
4a
the squall and headed for the
kosher supermarket, where she
knew they would be selling
Chanukah candles. Ronit knew that
her family already had some, but
she wanted to feel that somewhere
in her neighborh000d other people
were preparing for her holiday and
that she could join them.
As she walked, Ronit thought
again about Israel. Back home in
Beer Sheva the first night of
Chanukah always meant that Ronit's
grandparents would come from
Netanya and there would be a big
family celebration. Each member of
the family would light his own
menorah: her father's was a large
copper "Western Wall" with small
earthenware jugs that held olive oil
and a string wick; her mother's was
an old silver menorah with two lions
that had once been her
grandfather's.
Thinking about it all, Ronit
'=7e,d that so much of Chanukah's
her was connected to
it with her grandparents.
This year she couldn't do that.
"Why couldn't Sabba and Saavta
come with us, or at least visit? she
tought. "Other kids here will be
celebrating with family. What about
us?"
When Ronit returned from the
supermarket it was nearly dark.
Her family was waiting; the kitchen
smelled of frying latkes, and the one
small menorah they had brought
from home was on the table in front
of the living room window.
Tamara and Noa had helped Rcnit
and her mother decorate the room
earlier that afternoon. It looked like
everything was ready for the candle-
lighting ceremony. Everyone was
smiling, except for Ronit.
"Ronit, dear, would you like to
light the shamash for us?" her
father asked. "You're the oldest
child."
Ronit struck the match, held it
close to the colored candle, then
blew it out. "Abba, I know you and
!ma are going to buy us presents
for Chanukah. You always do. Can I
pick mine now, myself?
"Dear, since when do we talk about
presents when we light candles?"
said her mother. "Let's not forget
what Chanukah is really about."
Again Ronit lit the match, held
it near the Chanukah candle and
blew it out.
"I'm sorry; it's just that this is
terribly important to me. You'll
understand in just a minute," she
pleaded.
"Very mysterious," laughed her
father. "But if you explain, and it's
not too unreasonable, I agree. I can
see how important it must be to
you."
Instead of an explanation, Ronit
gave her dad a kiss, picked up the
phone, dialed a lot of numbers,
waited and finally said into the
mouthpiece, "Hi, Sabba, it's Ronit.
We didn't wake you and Saavta, did
we? We want to light Chanukah
candles with you. Hold on."
.
By LESLYE MICHLIN BORDEN
Chanukah, which begins this
year on the evening of December
19, commemorates the vistory of the
Jews, led by Judah the Maccabee,
over the Assyrians some 20
centuries ago. The holiday
celebrates a miracle that occurred
in the Temple after the victory: oil
enough for one day lasted for eight.
As a result, foods relating to this
holiday emphasize oil.
For instance, Ashkenazic Jews
from Germany and Eastern Europe
celebrated Chanukah by preparing
potato pancakes (latkes) fried in oil.
Given their northern climate, the
people usually served them with
applesauce, since apples were
abundant. They ate cucumbers at
almost every meal, fresh and
pickled. Since Chanukah was a
special occasion, brisket roasted
with onions and carrots was
featured as well. When they
emigrated to the United States, they
took their food traditions with them.
If you follow these traditions,
but want to enrich the old dishes
3 cups fresh (or frozen)
cranberries
4 large, tasty apples, washed and
cored
1 cup water
3/4-1 cup sugar, depending on
taste
1 Tablespoon grated orange rind
for garnish
Reprinted from Shofar magazine,
December 1990.
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Place a fourth of the ingredients
in food processor and process until
the mixture is coarsely grated.
Repeat until all the ingredients are
combined. Work quickly so the
mixture does not darken. Use at
once.
Heat an electric fry pan or griddle
to 350 degrees. Pour a small
amount of oil in the pan. Spread it
around so it covers the bottom
evenly. Use a quarter cup measure
to pour out the potato batter into the
heated pan. Fry until crisp and
brown and then flip. Fry on the
other side until done. Taste one
from the first batch to make sure
you have added enough salt.
Correct the seasoning, if necessary.
Drain on paper towels to remove
excess oil. Then place on a platter
and keep warm in the oven until all
the batter is fried. Repeat the
process, adding more oil for each
batch.
Makes 26 latkes.
HOMEMADE CRANBERRY
APPLESAUCE
Answers
E
(about 2 1/2 pounds)
/2 medium onion
3 Tablespoons flour
2 eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons salt (or to taste)
1 /4 teaspoon freshly ground
pepper
oil for frying
1
with local ingredients, take
advantage of the variety of unusual
produce and flavors that abound
throughout the Jews' new
neighborhood, the United States. Of
course, make latkes. But serve them
with a sauce that uses one of the
East Coast's favorite crops —
cranberries. Simmer fresh (or
frozen) cranberries with apples;
Puree the mixture and add a little
sugar. You'll have a delightful
"American" condiment to
accompany "authentic" East
European latkes.
AUTHENTIC
POTATO LATKES
6 medium unpeeled potatoes,
washed thoroughly and cubed
Place cranberries, unpeeled
apple chunks and water in large
saucepan. Bring to a boil, then
cover, reduce heat and simmer until
the apples are tender. Place in
blender or food processor and chop
until the sauce reaches the
consistency you prefer. Place the
sauce back into the cooking pan.
Stir in the sugar, one quarter cup at
a time. Taste after each addition so
you don't make it too sweet. Heat,
stirring, until the sugar melts. Serve
at once or refrigerate until serving
time. To serve, garnish with grated
orange rind. Makes 5 cups.
Leslye Michlin Borden is a former
Detroiter residing in California who
specializes in healthful kosher
cuisine.