mlyr .r/ im .n w n
WHY YOUR
PARTY PLANS
SHOL1D
INCLUDE US.
LOOK WHAT MOLLY SAID...
14E
DETROIT FREE PRESS/FRIDAY, OCTOBER 16, 1992 S
Andiamo Italia is alive
in spirit and good food
It's the best of both worlds for Aldo.
The fine Italian chef who presided for
some 35 years over his own restaurant
on Kelly Road and Seven Mile, where
he did everything from butchering the
veal to skimming the stock, is back in
the kitchen. This time, since joining
Andiamo Italia,
he has the luxu-
ry of a staff.
No wonder
he feels free to
roam the dining .
room in his
white coat, look-
ing as if he might
be checking to
see if you are
taking your al-
lergy pills but
probably sug-
gesting the ravi-
oli verdi. There
are plenty of
people in the
kitchen, includ-
ing talented young chef Jeffrey Kay, to
keep the pots boiling while the old
master chats with his fans.
Aldo couldn't have done it in the old
days. Still, he remembers those busy
days fondly, and he seems to regret
giving up the place that bore his name
and the menu on which virtually every-
thing was "alla Aldo." Now "alla
Aldos" are more discreetly sprinkled
through the menu, just three of them
among the dishes from Rome (his
hometown), Venice, Milan and New
York (steak, of course).
Aldo Ottaviani is obviously rejuve-
nated in his new role as chef-patriarch.
He looks hearty and relaxed and is
reverently referred to by all at An-
diamo as "Mr. Aldo." That's appropri-
ate, considering what a difference his
presence has made. The kitchen is
much improved at this restaurant that
was less than thrilling before Mr. Al-
do's arrival. And even after he was on
the scene, it took some time to get the
place rolling.
Now, I'm impressed with its fresh
spirit and the kitchen that seems to be
humming along in fine form, well rep-
resented in the dining room by a sharp
young staff that knows the menu and
discusses it intelligently.
At dinner this week on a usually
quiet Tuesday night, it wasn't so quiet
at Andiamo after all. There was an
Whatever occasion
you're planning,
we'll customize all our
banquet services
to meet your
needs and budget.
Ask us for more
information.
impressive crowd dining on cozze alla
Livornese (mussels in spicy tomato
sauce) and linguine with white clam
sauce at the white-covered tables to
the accompaniment of the player-less
electronic piano belting out everything
from "Give My Regards to Broadway"
to "Girl from Ipanema."
BUSINESS MEETINGS
Some guests were returning after
having been at Andiamo for the special
Monday dinner spotlighting the dishes
of Liguria, Italy's northwest coastal
region, said to be the birthplace of
ravioli. That says something about the
new scheme of things here.
Our table started with ravioli verdi
(who could resist Mr. Aldo's recom-
mendation?), and it was excellent, the
green pillows stuffed lightly with finely
minced chicken and veal in a robust
tomato sauce. Then some of the excel-
lent minestrone alla Milanese. There's
no soup any better when it is prepared
with care, as it is here — full of
random-cut vegetables and bits of pas-
ta in broth that has picked up all of the
flavors.
Maybe the salad course is a bit
routine, with its simple lettuce and
cucumber approach in creamy garlic or
raspberry vinaigrette dressing, but
main courses rise well above that. In
fact, the bocconcini di vitello alla Aldo
(plump medallions of veal tenderloin
with a thin veil of Fontina, sparked with
tomato and prosciutto) was one of the
best veal dishes sampled this year. The
other element on the plate was an
array of firm-but-tender miniature fall
vegetables brightened with tarragon.
Lovely.
And so were the marinated, char-
broiled spring lamb chops, five of them
on the plate, and completely self-suffi-
cient without the side dish of mint jelly.
They were also accompanied by the
tiny fall veggies.
The menu offers a number of ap-
pealing choices, from the house-made
pastas including fettucine with tomato
and vodka sauce, lasagna with meat
sauce, and gnocchi in a choice of
sauces, to made-to-order risotto,
chicken sauteed with wine and black
olives, and Dover sole with tarragon-
butter sauce.
Let's not even talk about the pastry
tray.
No wondenthe moms are full of life
on Tuesday. * * *
Only 20 -Minutes
From West Bloomfield, Birmingham, Etc.
For Reservations Call
268-3200
7096 E. 14 Mile Warren
OUR MUSIC
WILL HELP MAKE
YOUR PARTY.
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THE JEWISH NEWS
Musical Evening
At Beth El
In commemoration of the
500th anniversary of the ex-
pulsion of the Jews from
Spain and in recognition of
the diversity and richness of
their culture, Temple Beth El
will present "An Evening of
Sephardic Music" 8 p.m. Oct.
30 at the temple.
Joined by the Temple Beth
El Chorale and instrumen-
talists, Cantor Gail Hirschen-
fang will deliver a "Sermon
in Song," demonstrating the
Oriental flavor of the
religious and secular music of
the Judeo-Spanish communi-
ty of the 15th century.
The evening presentation,
part of the Friday evening
Shabbat service, is open to
the community without
charge.
Book Sale
In Southfield
The Friends of the South-
field Public Library's Semi-
annual Book Sale will be Nov.
10-12 in the library.
The Friends are putting on
a Preview Night 6 8:30 p.m.
Nov. 9. Admission at the door
entitles one to first chance at
the books as well as com-
plimentary refreshments.
Regular book sale hours
will be Nov 10-11, 9:30
a.m.-8:30 p.m.; Nov. 12, 9:30
a.m.-2 p.m.
The proceeds are used to
fund library programming
and other special projects.
-
Africa Is
Lecture Topic
The Center for Peace and
Conflict Studies, Wayne State
University, will host Great
Decisions '92, "Africa South
of the Sahara: Fresh Winds of
Democracy?" 7-8:45 p.m. Nov.
16 at the Southfield Exten-
sion of Wayne State Universi-
ty, 27300 West 11 Mile Road,
Southfield. The lecturer will
be Eboe Hutchful, professor
in the department of Africana
studies. There is a charge. For
information, call the center,
577-3453.
Movie Program
At Maple-Drake
The Jewish Community
Center will present RO
n c-
ing The Stone 12:30 p.m. Nov.
2 as the featured film for the
Monday at the Movies pro-
gram at Maple-Drake.
There is no charge.