Photos by Glen n Triest

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Paul Kohn: More than just Alaskan halibut. It feels good.

Goodbye Kishlie,

in:Welcome to the new

B

uddy Hackett had a
bad case of heartburn.
It was a good feeling.
It reminded him he .was
Jewish, he said.

ELIZABETH APPLEBAUM

Assistant Editor

24

FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 1992

That incomparable
schmaltz. Brisket heavy
with rich sauce. Kishke.
Greasy chicken. Overcook-
ed tzimmes. Potato kugel
dripping with oil. Thick
gravy over knishes.
Those were the good-old,
high-cholesterol days of

kosher food. The ap-
pearance at a 1943 Jewish
wedding of a plateful of
chicken with fat-laden
kishke was as predictable
as smelling your mother in
Evening of Paris cologne.
Or watching Aunt Miriam
tighten the strap on her
Rita Hayworth-style shoes
and retouch her bright-red
lipstick. Or seeing Uncle
Harry with his FDR-
inspired cigarette holder
and new suspenders.

Enter the new kosher
cuisine.
The salad:
Chefs salad with poached
Norwegian salmon.
Princess salad with bib
lettuce, mandarin orange
slices, dried cherries and
walnuts.
Stuffed grape leaves.

The entree:
Duck wrapped in filo
dough and topped with
raspberry sauce.

Rack of lamb with mint
jelly.
Chicken breast sauteed
in hazelnut liqueur.

Dessert:
Apples wrapped in puff
pastry and filled with
pecans, cinnamon and
margarine, served in a
caramel sauce.
Peach Melba flambe.
Death by Chocolate: a
rich, moist chocolate cake.
"Kosher cuisine exists

.