THE LO\ G THE SHORT Long Versus Short - from thigh high to ankle low; Pantsuits for those who opt out of the hemline controversy; Masculine/Feminine Mix a sexy spin on menswear; Waist Watch fit-and-flare dresses and midriff-revealing shirts; Wild West go native (Indian) or prairie princess; thanks, Underwear As Outerwear Madonna, American women really needed this; Tutu And Tulle pretend-ballerinas in full, bouncy skirts; Sheerly There see-through blouses and skirts; Go Navy and black and white and many other colors. That's the capsule version. But let's delve a little deeper, and also find out how Detroit merchants think the trends will fare with their customers. — — — — — — — — Long Versus Short In the world of fashion, people get hot under the collar over hemlines. The eye becomes used to a certain length, not to mention the expense and effort involved in shortening and lengthening hems. This spring, there's good news and bad news on this always controversial topic. First the good news. Short, which has been in vogue for at least the last five years, is not being suddenly dumped. Designers devoted about 90 percent of their collections to short hemlengths, both "regular" (above-the- knee; the prevailing length) and "ultra" (mid-thigh). For daywear, most of the short skirts are slim. A few have a flutter or a pleat to them, which designers emphasize by making them up in fabrics like georgette or tissue-weight wool. For eveningwear, slim skirts abound but the more fashion forward direction is the full skirt underlaid with tulle petticoats, so pretend-ballerinas can pirouette across the dance floor. WESTERN: Almost every designer gave it a shot but the one who carries it off best is Marc Jacobs for the Perry Ellis Company. Critics call his western wear fun and free- spirited. A casual denim shirt is worn with a wide belt and do-si-do skirt. PHOTO BY DAN LECCA.