Glatt Kosher

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ROOTS

music is playing; the walls
are decorated with posters of
Masada, and the cuisine is
Mediterranean.
Moroccan couscous, babaga-
noush, falafel, chicken shish-
kebab, baklava are all on the
menu. So is a specialty of the
house, the Masada mix. "It's
chicken shish-kebab and
lamb mixed together on a
grill and served with rice," ex-
plains Israeli owner Yigal
Schact, who presides over the
oldest glatt-kosher restaurant
on the East Side, which open-
ed over eight years ago.
It's a cheerful, unpreten-
tious place frequented by doc-
tors from Memorial Hospital
across the street, neighbor-
hood regulars, and sometimes
celebrity patrons, too, like ac-
tress Julia Roberts and her
fiance Jason Patric, who
usually order chicken shish-
kebab.
Over on the West Side, at
141 West 69th Street, Levana
also gets its share of
celebrities. Sex therapy
maven Dr. Ruth Westheimer
is a fan of the restaurant;
comedian Jackie Mason has
dined here, so has Giants
quarterback Phil Simms.
Israeli diplomats often stop in
when they're in town.
They can dine on specialties
like venison pate, quail with
wild rice, rack of lamb with
pesto sauce, sweetbreads, rib
eye steak and cornish hen.
"Our cuisine is innovative
American style," says
manager Joann Makovitzky,
who trained at the Culinary
Institute of America. "We're
always looking for new ideas."
Innovative indeed is the
venison. "We raise our own
fallow deer at a game farm in
upstate New York," says
Avrum Kirschenbaum, one of
three brothers who are co-
owners. In 1990 Levana sold
more venison dishes than any
other New York restaurant.
Sliced medallions of veni-
son, scallopini and varioli
venison, stuffed breast of
venison with apple pecan
stuffing — are just some of
the venison specialties of
the glatt-kosher restaurant.
They're prepared by chef Tony
Salsarullo, former chef for the
Plaza Hotel.
Desserts are another
specialty. Levana's pastry
chef, Michael Allen, prepares
all the desserts — as well as
bakes the bread — right on
the premises. He does it
without using a drop of milk
or cream — but with generous
portions of ingenuity.
The ice cream flambe, for
example, is a cognac parfait
made with non-dairy cream,
frozen and covered with
meringue.
Other tempting desserts in-

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THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS

79