FOOD You won't believe the stories behind your favorite Deli Sandwiches. AMY J. MEHLER Staff Writer IlAt ho hasn't sat at his neighborhood Jewish delicates- sen and puzzled over sandwich menus piled high with catchy, alternative names like Jason's Jammer; Moishe's Mazel and LOCA L • \\\.\\\\%\m\ m l•\ \\\\ ‘1 , % ttk I tili 94 FRIDAY, MARCH 6, 1992 II is r - 4.1 111 ` Forman's Follies? And don't forget those sandwiches with imaginative handles like Hannah's Chalaluya, Dolores' Worry, and Ronnie's That's My Delight. What's bugging Dolores, anyway? Every menu at Sara's Deli, she's worried about something. Would you complain if you were a toasted, four-decker, two- and-a-quarter pound burger draped with tangy beef bakon on a cushy bed of let- tuce, tomato and Russian dressing? Thought not. And what's the deal with Ronnie at the Bread Basket? What's he so delighted about? (Don't you just hate people who have some cons- tant, secret delight?) Don't you wish you could just turn to your eating partner or food server, and ask him once and for all, "Who are these people?" and "What are they doing on my sandwich?" Delicatessen sandwiches, as Midwesterners call them, (in the East, they're heroes) aren't just numbered slabs of pastrami or sides of corned beef nestled between warm, (and hopefully) hand-cut slices of Jewish rye bread. Today, they have heart, per- sonality, and if you're lucky to be related to or friends with the proprietor, one might have your name on it. Jason Winkler, 4-year-old son of Alex Winkler, owner of the Pickle Barrel on 12 Mile and Evergreen, has such a distinction. Jason is Mr. Winkler's youngest son, and the big- gest eater of his four chil- dren. "Huge eater," clarified his H