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BM • OM • NOM UM MUM FRIDAY, JANUARY 3, 1992 T he executive chef wears a red beret in the kitchen and when coming out to thank patrons who applaud his culinary ex- pertise . . . He's even French- born and raised . . . plus a graduate of the Culinary Academy in Paris, France. You can't get much more French than Pascal Paviani at Chez Pierre, on N. Main and University in downtown Rochester, which opened Sept. 15, and his French cuisine presentations show very brightly. This dining spot is the vi- sion of many years that has finally become one of fruition for Dr. Pierre (yes, there is a Pierre) Atallah, Harper Hospital and Crittenton Hospital cardiologist, whose ideas about French cooking being good for the heart reached a point of further agreement when displayed on CBS's "60 Minutes" and in a New York Times feature article. Chez Pierre is as you would imagine a French restaurant to be . . . cozy, intimate and so conducive to relaxed dining . . . This is not your staid type of so-called French restaurant with its New Yorky stuffiness . . . and thank heaven for a French dining spot with both a menu and large wine list that don't rip you off. Seating is only for 48 .. . just right . . . You wouldn't want any more as waiters like ever-smiling, personable and pleasant Joe Henderson whom people loved to have wait on them back in 1977 at the Rickshaw, efficiently and courteously bring French fare with gracious aplomb. A service bar in the corner has four stools . . . and a beautiful, private banquet facility with its large, rolling bar seats 130. The main dining room fire- place flickers its flames amid casual elegance that is receiv- ing much attention . . . Tall wine goblets rest atop mauve- colored tablecloths over white linen undercloths and white linen napkins for both the lap and to cover the French bread made at the restaurant by Chez Pierre's own fine Pastry Chef Joe Alfuri. Overhead, above the man- tle, are more than 250 types of wine lying on their sides awaiting joyful consumption . . . On the mantle itself are authentic French artifacts of beauty and interest . . . One of them, an 18th century clock, is said to have been seized by the Germans in France during World War II, taken to Italy and bought by Dr. Atallah from an antique dealer in Birmingham to adorn his library at home .. . Even the 9-year-old son of Dr. Atallah and wife Rosemarie, Pierre Jr. is represented on that mantle . . . He was about 6 or 7 years old in the second grade when making the talent-laden painting that sits on a stand . . . and wall hangings by Rosemarie are from branches pulled out of the family yard. French pictures are all about . . . plus very subdued French music softly wafting from above. To achieve his dream of authentic French dining, Dr. Atallah has done what smart restaurant owners do . . . sur- round themselves with the very best in competency in- stead of trying to bluff their way toward what eventually becomes disaster. This is where Les Kahrnoff and Sandy Roncelli come in. Les' mother, Elaine Kahr- noff Baker, was Joe Beato's food purchaser for so many years at Henry Ford Hospital and now lives with hubby Mort in Sarasota, Fla., where she is a food consultant at Sarasota General Hospital. Les was for seven years regional beverage director, representing 42 United States restaurants for Con- tinental Restaurant Corp., and beverage manager with Jim Constand when the former Vineyards (now Norm's Oyster Bar) was own- ed by E.J. Etkin and sons Bruce and Doug, Max Fisher's son Phil, Dick Kughn's son Gary and Mar- vin Alexander . . . Les opened the Franklin Grill downstairs and left to become a wine salesman before he and Joe worked together at the Holly Hotel where Les was general manager . . . He tried his hand at restaurant ownership for 3 1/2 years with the Brick Alley in Buffalo. Sandy was a waitress six years at the London Chop House, managed Aliette's French restaurant on Porter for the eight months it was open, and was manager 1 1/2 years at One 23 in Grosse Pointe. Chef Pascal doesn't wear black or white berets . . . He had enough of them while serving in the French army in 1982, a mandatory stint for its young citizens . . . When Pascal came to the United States he worked at Anton's on E. Jefferson five years and would come to Dr. Pierre and Rosemarie Atallah's home to cook for them . . . He return- ed to France and Dr. Atallah was going to open Chez Pierre but wanted to do it with an authentic French culinary ar- tist such as Pascal . . . He call- ed people asking where the French kitchen genius could be found . . . with no avail .. . Finally, one day the phone rang . . . it was Pascal . . . and so the story of him coming back to America to help put Chez Pierre together. The lifeblood of a restau- rant's success flows at Chez Chez Pierre has a large menu and wine list, and unstuffy atmosphere. Pierre with customers retur- ning many times . . . It is located in a building that Dr. Atallah built from the ground up after leveling a lumber yard that was there . . . His foresight in choosing this locale for a complete out- patient specialty clinic is a stroke of genius . . . Chez Pierre with its French win- dows and small panes and balcony for outdoor seating in warm weather is frosting on the cake for Dr. Atallah's medical complex . . . and cer- tainly a welcomed addition for lovers of French cuisine. Downstairs tells still another tale . . . This is Rosemarie's dream also .. . Her last name was Shea and the Irish tavern she always wanted is there too, opened a day before Chez Pierre, Sept. 14, by the former nurse and presently a practicing at- torney . . . O'Shea's, with a completely different look and atmosphere . . . checked tablecloths, redwood booths, but also with a very health- conscious chef, Ron Nichols, Culinary Institute of America graduate who plied his trade at Les Auteurs and Beverly Hills Grill . . . O'Shea's seats 125 plus 25 more at a long bar. The River Square Building which houses Chez Pierre and O'Shea's is also an attraction with its open courtyard and