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58
FRIDAY, DECEMBER 13, 1991
Jo Goldenberg's deli in - Paris.
■.■
Jewish Food In Paris
Cuisine And Deli
RUTH ROVNER
Special to The Jewish News
T
FEELING GOOD
IN-PAPER SUPPLEMENT
Issue Date:
December 27
Ad Deadline:
December 18
he tables are set with
bone china, crystal
goblets and fine linen
napkins. Fresh flowers form
the centerpiece. When the
waiters bring the food, it's
presented on gleaming silver
serving dishes.
The ambiance at Le
Chandelier is decidedly
sophisticated and elegant.
But that's hardly unusual in
Paris, the unofficial dining
capital of Europe, where the
pleasures of food are taken
seriously and chic
restaurants are abundant.
What makes Le Chandelier
distinctive, however, is that
it's both stylishly elegant and
fully kosher. The certificate
from the Bet Din of Paris is
prominently posted. A mez-
zuzah is on the door. The
debonair waiters wear kipot.
All the sauces in a
restaurant specializing in
French cuisine are made
without one drop of milk or
cream.
Ever since it opened in
1982, Le Chandelier has been
getting rave reviews. So it's
an ideal first stop for a tour of
Jewish dining in Paris. The
French capital so famous for
its food offers special
pleasures for the Jewish
traveler. Tunisian and Moroc-
can restaurants, Israeli style
cafes, classic Jewish delis —
they're all part of the
culinary adventures awaiting
Jewish travelers in Paris.
At Le Chandelier, the
cuisine is nouvelle French;
it's lighter in style than the
classic very rich foods, with
emphasis on fresh ingredients
and new approaches. The chef
cooks up innovative dishes of
salmon, chicken, lamb, veal
and duck, often with exotic
seasonings and surprising
flavors like raspberry.
This innovative menu
comes as a surprise to those
expecting traditional kosher-
style cuisine. But it's what
founder and owner Maurice
Charbit had in mind when he
first dreamed of opening a
distinctive kosher restaurant
in Paris.
"All my life I wanted to do
this — give the Jewish people
a kosher restaurant that also
had excellent cuisine — the
best!" said the Moroccan-born
owner.
His patrons are a diverse
group, including notables
from Israel, tourists from the
United States and Sephardim
living in Paris, who often
come to celebrate bar mitz-
vahs and other special events
here. Other Parisian Jewish
couples don't wait for a
special occasion to satisfy
their taste for nouvelle
cuisine that's also fully
kosher.
Paris can satisfy many
other Jewish appetites, too. In
the Pletzel, the colorful sec-
tion of Paris known for its
winding streets and lively
ethnic atmosphere, kosher
signs are posted on almost
every restaurant — and there
are many.
Restaurant Yahalom at 24
rue des Rosiers, one of the