YOSIS IVZ 1)101

LATT MART

Old-Fashioned Desserts
Gain New Popularity

Full Service Glatt Kosher Butcher

Tiffany Plaza
block southeast of 14 Mile)
32839 Northwestern Highway
855-8830

FEATURING

ROTISSERIE CHICKEN

THIS WEEK'S SPECIALS

THIS WEEK'S SPECIALS

Boneless Chicken Breasts
$4.95 / lb.

Blade Veal Chops
$3.99 / lb.

While supplies last

While supplies last

All kashrut laws strictly observed
under the supervision of the Council of Orthodox Rabbis

14 Mile

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Yossell & Susan (Hollander) Kellman

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6088 W. MAPLE AT FARMINGTON RD. • W. Bloomfield • 851-9666

SUNDAY 8 TO 3

OPEN MON. THRU SAT. 9 TO 6

THE PLACE FOR SMOKED FISH

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A.B. COHEN
CONSULTING & SALES

ALAN COHEN
(313) 661-9113

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Wishing All Our Friends,
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HARVARD ROW
KOSHER MEATS

Under Strict Rabbinical Supervision
In The Harvard Row Mall
11 Mile and Lahser
3 56-5111

80

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 1991

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"Where You Come First"

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Uptown
Southfield Rd. at
111/2 Mile • 559-3900

Big & Tall
Southfield at
10 1/2 Mile • 569-6930

Slumps, grunts, cobblers
and buckles are appearing
alongside tarts and tortes on
the menus of some of Ameri-
ca's most fashionable restaur-
ants, providing culinary
meaning to the phrase
"everything old is new again."
As traditional American
foods were being lightened to
become New American Cui-
sine, desserts were included
in the process. Chef Lawrence
Forgione made headlines in
the early 1980s when Apple
Pandowdy was the featured
dessert at his American Place
restaurant in New York. To-
day, chef Will Greenwood
features a daily fruit cobbler
on the menu at Washington's
Jefferson Hotel, while at
Boston's Restaurant Jasper
chef Jasper White offers
peach and blueberry cobbler
and strawberry rhubarb crisp
as desserts.
Most of these desserts do
not require the rolling of
dough — a necessary step in
the making of pies. Cobbler,
fresh fruit topped with a
biscuit-like dough, is called
Bird's Nest Pudding in New
England, according to John
Mariani in The Dictionary of

American Food & Drink
(Ticknor & Fields, 1983).
Using a similar dough, but
not requiring an oven, are
grunts and slumps. For these
dessert forms, invented dur-
ing colonial times, dumplings
are steamed on top of fruit
sauce. While "slumping" is
what the dessert does on the
plate, "grunting" is the sound
the simmering sauce makes
as the dumplings steam; thus
the two names.
Shortcakes, usually topped
with fresh fruit and whipped
cream, are mentioned in
Washington Irving's Legend
of Sleepy Hollow written in
1821, and soon thereafter
strawberry shortcake became
a summertime staple.
The secret to success for all
of these desserts is making
the dough quickly, without
too much handling.
Here are some tips for se-
lecting fruits:
Blueberries: The harvest-
ing machine gently shakes
plants so only ripe blueber-
ries fall softly into the cat-
ching frame. Avoid soft ber-
ries that show signs of mold
or bruises. Look for deep col-
or and plump berries with a
powdery white "bloom." Use
within a few days after buy-
ing, and rinse before using.
Pick through the berries and
discard any bits of stem and
green immature berries.

I

Cherries: Look for plump,
shiny-skinned berries with
stems attached for maximum
freshness. Avoid very soft
fruit without stems. Tart
cherries are best for desserts,
while sweet cherries are best
for pies. All will need pitting
before use, and there are
specialty kitchenware stores
that sell devices to ac-
complish that task.
Peaches: Since they are
prone to decay, peaches are
usually picked from the trees
mature but unripe, and they

can take several days to ripen
after purchase. If picked too
early, they will shrivel up
without ripening. Look for
peaches that are creamy or
overall golden yellow in color.
A rosy blush does not indicate
ripeness, and the depth of col-
or differs among varieties.
Most peaches we purchase
are "free-stone," meaning
that thepit pops out easily. To
peel peaches before cooking,
place them in a colander and
plunge into boiling water for
30 seconds, then refresh in ice
water. The skins will slide off
easily.
Strawberries: Look for
fresh, clean fruit with bright
green hulls and stems. As
with all soft fruits, avoid ber-
ries that show discolored
spots or signs of mold. Rinse
gently before hulling and
slicing.

APPLE TURNOVERS
Filling:
13/4 cups chopped, peeled
tart cooking apples
(about % pound or 2
medium)
1 /3 cup water
% cup firmly packed
brown sugar
1 /4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1 tablespoon all-purpose
flour
1 teaspoon granulated
sugar
1 tablespoon butter or
margarine
Double Crust:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
3 /4 cup vegetable
shortening

Continued on Page 82

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