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84

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 1991

New Book Features
Cold Soups, Warm Salads

he only cold soups
served at my parents
home were borscht and
schay. Beet borscht would
precede a favorite dairy meal
on Monday nights. The taste
for the bitter schav was not
quickly developed and no
amount of "doctoring" made
this soup palatable to chil-
dren. Shredded cabbage or
warm potato salad were the
only salads that required
cautious cooling before
swallowing.
Today, along with the abun-
dance and availability of
herbs, exotic fruits and vege-
tables, plus creative chefs,
comes an exciting new book
that supplies over 50 choices
of Cold Soups, Warm Salads,
by Irene Rothschild.
Mrs. Rothschild shares reci-
pes from The Four Seasons
Hotel, Philadelphia; Il Nido
Restaurant, Indian Rocks
Beach, Fla., and the western
influence of Chef Bruce
Auden of San Antonio, Tex. to
mention a few.
This book is a welcome ad-
dition to any cooking library.
Men who are great salad
makers can enlarge their rep-
ertoire, novice cooks like the
uncomplicated instructions,
newlyweds and empty nesters
like the small portions. Mrs.
Rothschild personally selec-
ted the following recipes.

ORANGE BEET SOUP
WITH LIME
3 bunches beets
1 large onion, peeled
7 to 8 cups water
1 tablespoon salt
3 eggs
P/3-1 1/2 cups sour cream
2 to 4 tablespoons sugar
1% to 2 cups freshly
squeezed orange juice
31/2 tablespoons freshly
squeezed lime juice
freshly ground black
pepper to taste
Orange or lime twist, for
garnish

Trim beets, leaving the tails
and 1/2 inch of the stem end.
Peel, rinse and place into a
saucepan with a whole onion.
Add water and salt, bring to
a boil, partially cover, and
simmer until tender, 30 to 45
minutes.
Remove and set aside the
beets, reserving the liquid,
until beets are cool enough to
handle. Discard the onion.

Ruth Samuels is a food writer
in Philadelphia, Pa.

Trim, cut the beets into

quarters, and puree in a food
processor or blender, adding
some of the reserved liquid.
In a large bowl, whisk the
eggs with the sour cream and
stir in the puree. Return to
the saucepan, whisking to
blend. Add the sugar, orange
juice, and lime juice, tasting
for the proper balance. Adjust
the salt and pepper. Pour into

a bowl or container and chill.
Serve chilled, garnished with
an orange or lime twist.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.

WINTER PLUM SOUP
11/4 cups water
1/2 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 cinnamon sticks
1 lemon, peel and juice
Two 16 1/2-ounce cans
purple plums
1 tablespoon arrowroot
1/2 cup red Burgundy
wine
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup Chambord
liqueur
1 cup sour cream
Creme fraiche
Ground cinnamon, for
garnish

In a 2-quart saucepan,
bring the water, sugar, salt,
cinnamon sticks, and 2 strips
of lemon peel to boil. Drain
the plums, reserving the
syrup. Halve, remove the pits
and puree in a food processor
with a small amount of the re-
served syrup. Add to the
saucepan, reduce heat to a
simmer, and cook about 10
minutes. Remove cinnamon
sticks and lemon peel.
Blend the arrowroot with
the wine and stir into the
soup. Cook until clear and
slightly thickened. Stir in
lemon juice and remove from
the heat. Pour mixture
through a strainer and let
cool. Add heavy cream, blend
the Chambord into the sour
cream and add a small
amount of the soup, whisking
until smooth. Chill. Ladle
into bowls and pipe creme