Itt‘ fel Old•World Recipes With Healthy 1Wist By LESLYE MICHLIN BORDEN Rosh Hashanah was always a very special occasion at my grandmother's house. Our whole family gathered there. Squeaky clean, dressed in new outfits, we all were on our very best behavior, ready to start the New Year right. Grandma did everything to make the occasion momentous. For weeks in advance, she cooked all her best recipes, a crown-shaped challah to "head" the new year, spicy, sweet cherry soup, brisket with a delicious ginger raisin sauce, and potato knishes. Every dish had some sweetness, to emphasize her desire that we all be inscribed for a sweet new year. This Rosh Hashanah, I want to create an unforgettable occasion for my assembled family. I want to prepare a meal like Grandma's, but without the fat and cholestrol that typified her best recipes. It is easy to make challah without eggs. Use egg substitute instead of whole eggs. Make sure to select a brand of egg substitute that is not high in oil. Find the one that is almost 100 percent egg whites. Grandma's cherry soup needs no adaptation whatever. A combination of cherries, water, and spices, it's easy to prepare the day before. Instead of making brisket with ginger raisin sauce, try the same sauce on a breast of turkey. It's low in fat, cholesterol and calories. On turkey, this sauce tastes even better than on brisket. Potato knishes are everyone's favorite. Grandma used to make them with schmaltz and gribens, rendered chicken fat and delicious bits of cooked chicken skin, definitely forbidden foods for today's health conscious eaters. No Cholesterol "Yolkless" Challah Rolls 1 packet dry yeast 1 1/4 cups very warm water (about 110 degrees) honey 5 cups unbleached white flour 3/4 teaspoons salt 1/4 cup egg substitute (equivalent to 2 eggs) 3 tablespoons canola oil sesame seeds 1 egg white In a small glass bowl, combine the yeast with the water. Add a half teaspoon of honey. Stir well and set aside. After about 5 minutes, the yeast should be bubbling. Now it's ready to use. In a large ceramic mixing bowl, combine 3 cups of flour and the salt. Make a well in the center and add the yeast mixture. Mix thoroughly, scraping the sides of the bowl when necessary. Add 3 tablespoons honey, 1/2 cup flour, the egg substitute, and the oil. Continue stirring. Work in another 1/2 cup flour. Combine all these ingredients well. The dough should be sticky. Rub another 1/2 cup of flour into your pastry cloth. Remove the dough from the bowl and place on the floured cloth. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Wash out the bowl in which you mixed the dough. Dry it carefully and spray the inside with a vegetable spray. Place the kneaded dough into the greased bowl. Cover with a clean, damp towel and let rise in a warm place, free from drafts, until the dough comes up to the top of the bowl (or doubles in size), about 1 1/2 hours. Preparing a meal like Grandma's, without the fat and cholesterol. Heat your oven to 350 degrees. Spray 2 12-cup muffin pans with vegetable spray. When the dough has risen, punch it down and turn out onto the pastry cloth. Divide into two equal parts. Put one half back into the bowl and cover while you are working with the other half. Sprinkle yur pastry cloth with 1/4 cup flour. Divide the first piece of dough into 12 pieces. Divide one piece into three small pieces. Roll each of these into 8-inch long ropes. Press the top ends together and braid the three. Form the roll by placing the braid into the muffin cup, starting at the outside edge. Coil the braid in a circle, working toward the center. Tuck the ends inside the center. Repeat with the remaining 11 pieces. Cover the formed rolls with a damp towel. Then shape the other half of dough, using the last 1/4 cup of flour on the pastry cloth. Let the rolls rise until double, less than one hour. The first pan may be ready for the oven before the second one has finished rising. Before placing the rolls in the oven, beat the egg white with a little water. Brush a little of this mixutre onto each roll, taking care not to get it near the edge of the pan (or the roll will stick to the pan). Sprinkle with a few sesame seeds. Bake 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool on wire racks. Remove from pans when still slightly warm. If you want to reheat the rolls, place them in a paper bag. Moisten the outside of the bag with water. Place in the oven and heat until the bag is dry. Makes 24 rolls. Sweet Cherry Soup 3 16-ounce canned sweet cherries, undrained 4 cups water 1 /2 cup sugar juice of one lemon 2 cinnamon sticks 1 cup red wine, preferably Bordeaux Place cherries, water, sugar, lemon juice, and cinnamon sticks in a pot large enough to hold all the ingredients. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer 10 minutes (The cherries should keep their shape). Cool and refrigerate at least 4 hours, or overnight. To serve, remove the cinnamon sticks. Add the red wine. Ladle into chilled bowls or goblets. Makes 12 servings. Turkey Breast With Ginger Raisin Sauce 3-pound breast of turkey (with bone) non-fat chicken broth 1 teaspoon salt freshly ground white pepper garlic powder 1 onion, sliced thinly 1 /2 cup cider vinegar water 1 cup golden raisins 1 tablespoon tomato ketchup 3 bay leaves 3 whole cloves 4 gingersnaps, broken into pieces Sprinkle the turkey breast with salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Prepare a roasting pan or Dutch oven large enough to hold the turkey breast comfortably by spraying it with vegetable spray. In this pan, heat a few tablespoons of non-fat chicken broth. When the broth is hot, add the turkey and the onions. Brown them, adding more broth as necessary, so the turkey does not stick to the pan. When the turkey is brown on all sides and the onions have wilted and are starting to turn golden brown, add the remaining ingredients, except for the gingersnaps. Cover and simmer for two hours. Or bake at 325 degrees for 2 hours. After an hour, turn the breast so both sides can cook in the delicious sauce. Add more water or chicken broth as necessary to keep the sauce from burning. When the turkey is tender, place the gingersnaps in a small bowl. Add 1/2 cup water and mix well. Stir this into the pan and cook one half hour longer. Cool. Then slice and refrigerate. To serve, reheat the sliced turkey, covered, until the sauce is hot and bubbly, about 20 minutes. Makes 8 servings. (No-Fat, No-Cholesterol) Almost Potato Knishes 2 pounds potatoes, peeled and cut into pieces 1 teaspoon salt 1 onion, chopped non-fat chicken broth salt and pepper to taste Place the potato pieces in a medium saucepan. Cover with cold water. Add 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer, covered, until the potatoes are soft, about 20 minutes. While the potatoes are cooking, prepare the onions. Spray a medium non-stick frying pan with vegetable spray. Add 1/2 cup non-fat chicken broth to it. When the broth is hot, add the onions. Cook them until the broth evaporates and the onions are browned. Add more broth if the broth cooks away and the onions are not yet brown. When the potatoes are ready, drain them from the cooking liquid. Save some of this liquid. Mash them with a potato masher or hand mixer. Add the browned onions and salt and pepper to taste. If the potatoes seem too thick, add some of the cooking liquid or more non-fat chicken broth. Continue mixing until the potatoes have a smooth consistency. To make muffins, spray 8 cups of a 12-cup muffin pan with vegetable spray. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Fill the prepared cups with the potato mixture. Sprinkle with paprika, if desired. Bake for 20 minutes. Potatoes will puff up slightly. Let them cool in the pan before trying to remove. May be frozen at this point. To serve, reheat, covered, until warm. Leslye Michlin Borden is a former Detroiter who specializes in healthful kosher cuisine. THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS L-7