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Ornate details in the synagogue in Cavaillon.
Southern French Towns
For Jewish Travelers
RUTH ROVNER
Special to The Jewish News
I
n the display cases are
simple objects. They in-
clude worn, frayed prayer
books, synagogue account
books with pencil notations
scribbled and sturdy circum-
cision cloths with the names
of Jewish male infants
carefully sewn in.
But these objects, however
plain and worn, are in-
valuable because they are the
concrete reminders of a
French Jewish community
dating back to 1499.
That's why visitors who
find their way to Cavaillon
are often surprised — and
delighted — to find such
historical treasures in a
modest museum in a small
town in southern France.
The Jewish museum of
Cavaillon is indeed unique.
Situated in a tranquil town
(population 20,000) just 17
miles from Avignon, a
popular city in Provence, the
ground floor museum is
located on the site of an an-
cient Jewish bakery. With its
stone floors, beamed ceilings
and evocative sense of the
past, it provides tangible
evidence of a thriving Jewish
community from the 15th
century.
In one corner is a marble
slab that was once part of the
bakery that existed in this
ground floor area. In the
display cases are numerous
ritual objects — mezzuzot,
menorot, Torah covers, kid-
dush cups, prayer shawls —
that together form a history
of this once-active Jewish
community.
That history is particularly
intriguing because of the
special status of the Jews of
Cavaillon. In this town, as in
Visitors are even
more surprised to
see the beautiful,
ornate synagogue
on the second
story of the
building.
nearby Avignon, Carpentras
and Isle sur la Sorgue, Jews
had a special status. In the
14th century, when Avignon
was the capital of Christen-
dom — and afterwards, too,
when the popes ruled the
area from Rome — the Jews in
this region enjoyed special
"protected" status — a status
that endured for four cen-
turies. While Jews elsewhere
were persecuted, those who
lived in the four towns under
papal regime were safe and
secure — though that protec-
tion came with many
restrictions.
For example, as the guide
explains to _visitors, the