Suitable Suits
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38 STYLE
To suit body shapes that are
somewhat short of perfection, manu-
facturers have put lots of effort into
the three C's — coverage, control, and
camouflage.
A number of lines have opted for
greater coverage — at the bust, waist,
and particularly the thigh. Thigh lines
are now creeping down from the hip-
bone highs of a few years back.
In an unconstructed suit, a
surplice bodice that overlaps
diagonally (creating a V-neckline) will
give the breasts some support. But
it's constructed suits that provide real
figure control, and they now offer a
variety of features. There are
underwire bras, soft cups, and even
hard cups. A lining of heavy Lycra
mesh that fits snugly and rides
separately from the suit keeps the
midriff in check.
For camouflage, there's the con-
cealment provided by ruffles or
fringes at the bosom, a blouson or
surplice wrap over the middle, or a
skirted bottom covering the thighs.
• Long torso. Hide it under a
blouson or flaunt it (breaking the long
body line) in a bikini. A belt or cum-
merbund is good for you, and tops
and bottoms of different colors. You
also can wear horizontal stripes.
• Short torso. Vertical stripes or
prints work best. A low-cut bikini bot-
tom will give you a longer-looking
midsection.
• Short legs. If hips and thighs
can take the exposure, a high-cut
thigh will give extra length.
• Full bosom. A surplice gives
you cleavage as well as support. Look
for wide shoulder straps. A bandeau
or tank suit will play down the bosom,
as will solid colors (or a dark top and
lighter bottom).
• Small bosom. Bandeaux and
minimal bikini tops are not for you;
ruffled, fringed, shirred, or draped
necklines are. Look for two-tone suits,
with the brighter color — and even a
horizontal print — on top.
• Heavy hips and thighs. Com-
plete coverage out back is most im-
portant. Moderately high-cut sides
make legs look longer and thighs
slimmer, but skirted bottoms are best
to disguise the hipline.
• Thick waist. The surplice style
or blouson works best, diagonal
stripes can help.