Evening outfit features double- breasted floral- embossed jacket with pink satin lapels and black velvet collar. maccan of taupe and green tattersall, with a button-out lining in a coordi- nating striped fabric. The dress and jacket underneath are the same stripe jersey in taupe and green. "American women love color," says Blass. "For fall there will be no sad, dour colors." This season, Blass is particularly fond of eggyolk yellow. He also designs a red satin char- meuse dress with a draped open back. His stylish clothing is just one aspect of the Blass empire known as Bill Blass Ltd. Blass is the sole owner of a company with 37 domestic licensees and 70 world-wide licensees for products ranging from women and men's clothing, home furnishings, hosiery and perfume to the Lincoln Mark VII automobile. He was one of the first designers to market his name on products. Blass explains that his sole own- ership of the company is the major accomplishment in his career. "The highlight of one's whole career is owning outright the company you have been involved with 20 years," says Blass, who admits the process came about slowly, and not without some delicate business maneuvering, by 1970. While most designers have silent partners and must seek financial backing, Blass is independent. Vogue reports that his annual world-wide retail volume is $450 million. As a businessman, Blass dresses im- peccably for success in a navy pin- striped suit, powder blue shirt with white collar and cuffs, and a tradi- tional red tie. All of his suits are custom-made in England. He is dap- per and polished, with a commanding presence in an interview reminiscent of Lee Iaccoca's self-confident style on television. But Blass isn't selling Chryslers; his name is on a Ford. About 15 years ago, Ford Motor Co. introduced four designers with the Lincoln Mark Series. Today, two designers are still associated with Ford — Blass and Cartier. This season, the Bill Blass name will be introduced on not one fragrance but a collection of three fragrances. The trio includes Basic Black, Nude, and Hot. All are being presented by Swing jacket comes with matching top. Jacket's yellow lining contrasts Prestige Fragrances Ltd. Blass' per- sonal collection of antique Chinese bottles inspired his designs for the trio of softly-curved bottles in the collection. This season also marks the 20th anniversary collection of Bill Blass for Springmaid, a line of home fashions that includes sheets, pillowcases, win- dow treatments, table linens, rugs, towels, shower curtains and porce- lains for bed and bath coordination. The anniversary collection features five new patterns with two in lace and chintz. Blass has been sketching designs since his grade school years in Fort Wayne, Indiana. His love for mag- azines led him to New York City in 1939, where he got a job as a sketch artist for the design firm of David Crystal. He served in the United States Army during World War II. He then resumed his career in various design houses. While at the firm of Maurice Rentner Ltd., he was made vice pres- ident. In the 1960s, Blass was known for the "Baby Doll" look. A 1965 Bill Blass advertisement shows Blass and a model both wearing houndstooth check suits with the caption, "Who needs Paris when you can steal from yourself?" By 1970 he was the president and sole owner of his company. Over the years, Blass has been able to maintain close relationships with his customers and clients, according to Helen O' Hagan, vice president and director of public relations at Saks Fifth Avenue. "Blass was really the first designer I met after Sophie Gimbel, and our relationship goes back over 20 years. Saks was the first store to have a boutique totally devoted to his clothing. He estab- lished himself right off as one of the top designers, not only in terms of the style of his clothes but in their value." Blass has the knack of establishing an excellent rapport between himself and his customers. On his extensive travels around the country, he makes an effort to know his customer. He knows her lifestyle, how she spends her time and, most importantly, how Houndstooth- patterned suit shows off the figure. Black trim outlines the fitted jacket. Blass 'II adds bright red gloves. FALL '90 63