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76
FRIDAY, JULY 20, 1990
,V, ••••
'Cafe Grazing'
In Tel Aviv
ETHEL G. HOFMAN
Special to The Jewish News
t's hard to believe, but in
spite of some of the worst
tension in Israel's history,
this city is bustling, thriving
and alive.
I am spending just six days
here so there's no time to
while the hours away in fancy
restaurants. Besides, to get
the real taste of Israeli food,
neighborhood cafes are your
best bet.
Until recently, these eat-
eries were limited to bever-
ages and magnificent pastries
— topped with mountains of
`schlag' (whipped cream).
Now they offer everything you
could possibly wish for to
make a complete meal. There
are cool soups, such as the
yogurt soup, bursting with
the sweetness of green grapes
and walnuts, served at the
French Crepe in the Sheinkin
Street area (Tel Aviv's "Vil-
lage"); main dish salads;
sandwiches; and at the three
locations of Kapulskys, sou-
ffles are made to order. Prices
range from downright cheap
to moderate, and usually
service is fast and cheerful,
food is fresh and each dish is
presented with a flair ritzy
enough to grace the color
pages of any gourmet
magazine.
Mention Israeli cuisine and
breakfast springs to mind.
The first meal of the day in
Israel has become famous for
abundance and variety.
Now, many cafes feature an
Israeli breakfast platter at
reasonable prices. But for my
money, I always make my
headquarters at the newly
renovated Tal Hotel, 287
Hayarkon Street, where bed
and hefty breakfast costs $44
single, $56 double.
Guests can help themselves
to close to 40 (yes, that's 40)
breakfast items. There's the
exotic; cubed low-fat Bul-
garian cheese, fresh mangos
and avocados, vegetable
salads, marinated vegetables,
tuna fish salad, bowls of
plump olives, vegetables and
fresh herbs folded into creamy
cottage cheese, herring
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salads, and fresh fish salads.
Then there's the ordinary —
such as boiled eggs, compotes,
cereals, bread and rolls. But
the highlight is the juice bar,
where you can squeeze your
own oranges and grapefruits
through a hand-cranked
press.
With this kind of breakfast
under your belt, who needs
lunch? Just make sure to
drink plenty of liquids
throughout the day, then stop
off for late supper at one of
the excellent sidewalk cafes
listed below:
CAFE B'NORDAU: Cor-
ner of Nordau and Ben Ye-
huda (North Tel Aviv). Here
you can enjoy an Israeli
breakfast for $5, including
coffee. Satisfying, pretty as a
picture soups, salads and
sandwiches from $3.50 to $7.
STERN CAFE: At 189
Dizengoff, corner of Dizengoff
and Shit Recognizable by the
crisp red and white awning
and pristine tables and
chairs. Specialties are
"heimish” Jewish cooking;
homemade kreplach and ge-
filte fish and even chicken
soup. But there's also a full
menu of lighter dishes. Stop
and refresh with a cup of
fragrant cappuccino and a
warm pastry filled with
sweet, runny chocolate and
chewy walnuts.
KAPULSKYS: At three
locations, but the swankiest
is at the new Shuster Shop-
ping Center, 19 Achmir in
Ramat Aviv. Bright yellow
umbrellas shade outdoor
tables; inside the decor is
pure Florida — mauves, pinks
and sand. But the food is
native Israeli and the por-
tions are large. Picture
perfect salads made from the
freshest ingredients are large
enough for two, while pastries
such as Kartoffel, a rich
chocolate ball wrapped in
white marzipan, make eating
at Kapulskys a sublime
experience.
ALADIN: At 5 Shlomo
Street, Jaffa. Aladin is
housed in a small Moroccan
building perched on the cliff's
edge overlooking the Mediter-
Continued on Page 78