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Here were bookstores, laden from floor to ceiling with Jewish books in a dozen languages, where you could also buy ritual necessities like a talis and tefilin. Here one could choose from a half dozen Yiddish dai- ly newspapers. This was grown up stuff, no concern of mine. I looked away from the dingy streets to the river. I was fascinated by the three bridges which converged on me. The Man- hattan Bridge was just an old, rusty, drab span spoiling the restless beauty of the water. The Williamsburg Bridge was much grander, a massive gray stone fortress. But the Brooklyn Bridge, all lacy webs and pointed arches, was a picture in a storybook. lb cap it all, across the river loomed the Brooklyn Navy Yard, a gigantic steel-blue erector set. The river was the world beyond. Wind-wafted from brick-red sea trains came the earthy pungence of cattle, poultry and pig, and the fragrance of coffee and spices. Garbage scows drifted after puffing olive-drab tugboats. Sea gulls followed the scows, screaming and plunging. 'Nice a day the Boston-bound steamer blasted a frightening warning as it rounded the bend in the river called Cor- lears Hook. On summer days, divers ostentatiously crossed themselves before they hur- tled from the high pier pilings at Hecker's Mill into the dark, fetid waters. The river was a spectacle, shining but distant. The streets were close, intimate, haimisch. Umbrella- and pot- menders, knife sharpeners, fruit and vegetable vendors, and I-Cash-clothes men kept up a ceaseless chorus of calls. Organ grinders, street singers and merry-go-rounds cranked, shrilled and tinkled a counter- point. Dark-skinned men car- ried cawing parrots that, for a penny, picked printed for- tunes from a box with their beaks. Vendors wheeled piping hot delectables in sheet metal stoves on old baby carriage wheels: sweet potatoes, corn- on-the-cob, purple Fava beans and yellow chickpeas. And ice-scrapings doused with syrup, Itirkish halvah and sesame squares, and cookie bits wrapped in paper cones and called schmutz (dirt). Horses still turned wheels. I went to sleep to the clop of horses' hooves and awoke to a wagon driver's cluck. Spar- rows fattened on redolent horse droppings; oats sprout- ed between cobblestones. From stables came the clang of hammer on anvil. On win- ter ice-slicks horses fell and lay huge and helpless. After the savage clatter of occa- sional runaway horses came the jangle of ambulances, the breath of death rising like a mist from the streets. East Siders were avid cele- brants. One holiday barreled down on the next one. Memo- rial Day — we called it Decor- ation Day — didn't end until the Fourth of July. For a whole month the streets heaved and reeked under a sulphurous barrage of fire- crackers. On Halloween you stayed indoors unless you wanted to be bashed by stockings stuffed tight with coal ash and hard as black- jacks. On Election Day every- thing wooden and portable, from unguarded pushcarts to old sofas and piano parts, became bonfires roaring up the roof tops. All day long the shrilling of fire engines drowned out the screech of tin horns. There were ritual taboos unheard of elsewhere. A man wearing a straw hat after Labor Day was defying the inevitable. Kids were sure to knock the hat off his head and stomp it to bits. The hat, not the head. Saturday mornings even the children of atheists went to synagogue. Actually to the backyard of the synagogue where a stinking ailanthus raised scraggly arms in bless- ing. During the long reading from the lbrah, the tree was home base for games of ver- tical tag. Like raucous angels mocking Jacob's dream in Genesis, we scampered up and down the iron ladders. When there was a Bar Mitz- vah, we had extra fun pelting the poor kid with bags of hard candy and hazel nuts. Then we fought over the stuff we had just thrown. People in cities today can have privacy and anonymity. On the East Side we had neither. If there was a line between friendliness and nosiness, no one recognized it. People popped in and out of one another's flats. If you happened to raise your voice, your next door neighbor knocked on your door and asked., "You're having a fight? Make up already!" Neighbors lent cups of flour and sugar or