YOU NEED A VACATION .. . But you are taking care of a parent. short overnight trip to Baltimore, I admit I was somewhat skeptical about how we'd fare as a travel team. Until my stepfather died three years ago, Mom was a traditional wife who stayed close-to-home and whose travel experience was limited to an annual two-week winter trip to Florida. I, in contrast, was a longtime traveler — and a dedicated solo one at that — accustomed to going my own way on the road. Despite our differences, our first trip went surprisingly well. Mom proved to be an ex- cellent traveler — adaptable, energetic, adventurous. What's more, she carefully resisted the impulse to mother me. Instead, she deft- ly managed to shift roles to become my traveling compa- nion who happened to be my mother. That weekend we saw the exhibits at the Jewish Heritage center; visited the My mother's delight in Jewish travel has made each trip more memorable for me as well. ' historic Baltimore Hebrew Congregation, where mom, along with other tourists, gamely climbed down the narrow, winding stairs to see an ancient mikveh on the ground floor level; and final- ly, stopped for hefty sand- wiches on Corned Beef Row. That was the start of many trips together as a mother- and-daughter travel team. Not only is my mother a live- ly traveling partner — and so youthful looking that people invariably say, "You look more like sisters than mother and daughter" — but she's also become my unofficial assistant as I do my research. In Portland, Maine, it was Mom who managed to track down the young bell captain at the Sonesta Hotel, where we were staying, and ask him — using her gentle persua- sion — if he could take us on a quick tour of the city's synagogues. This was a request he'd never heard before, but how could he refuse my charming mother? So we climbed into the hotel limo and traveled around the city and suburbs to see all three synagogues in the Maine capital that's known as "the Jerusalem of the North." In Toronto, Mom was equal- ly helpful as she rode with me by bus up and down Bathurst Street, heart of the Jewish community. It took 45 minutes to travel the length of this broad, busy avenue. But Mom was a real trooper, helping me locate the sites and verify the addresses as I tried to take notes while riding. With her precise memory for sensory detail, she often can add to the hurried notes I must sometimes make. She's helped me recall the Shalom plates in a shop in San Juan; the gold velvet pews in Thm- ple Sinai in New Orleans and the colors of the stained-glass windows in Temple Emanu- El's vast sanctuary in New York. A true food maven, she also recalls in detail the meals we've enjoyed on the road, like the roast beef special at Chick and Ruth's Delly in An- napolis, the chopped liver at the Full Belly Deli in Portland and the blintzes at Milk 'n Honey in Toronto. And she loves to recount the evening we dined in style at La Rotisserie, one of San Juan's most elegant restaurants, and had spit- roasted Empire kosher chicken for our entrees. When the waiter brought our entrees, Mom was the first taster. "Delicious!" she pronounced — high praise from someone who's been cooking kosher chicken for decades. We lifted our glasses of wine — it was kosher estate-bottled Chardonnay — and toasted to the start of our San Juan adventure. Then I made another toast. I toasted to a mother who has shown me that mothers can adapt to new experience — and thus stay youthful — at any age and stage of life. I toasted to my mother, the traveler. 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