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SMOKED FISH (TRAYS)
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92
FRIDAY, APRIL 6, 1990
W
ith the approach of
Passover, Israelis,
like Jews the world
over, prepare for an onslaught
of matzah. Let it be clearly
understood that there is ab-
solutely nothing wrong with
such delights as matzah brie,
matzah dumplings, matzah
kugel or matzah meal pan-
cakes but after two or three
days of such a diet the palate,
stomach and digestive
regions begin to rebel. There
is simply a limit to the
amount of matzot even the
most devout men and women
can ingest.
One of the joys of living is
that immigrants from all over
the world have brought with
them a host of marvelous
dishes, many of which, even
though they contain only the
vaguest traces of matzot, are
designed especially for the ad-
vent of Passover. Such treats,
whether from Jewish homes
in Morocco or Ethiopia, Uru-
guay or Greece, will satisfy
the most rigorous standards
of tradition. They also meet
the highest standards of truly
fine cuisine.
I always look forward to din-
ing with the Kazantizis fami-
ly in Tel Aviv. Although
Nikos and Ioanna both grew
up in the Greek port city of
Salonika, they met only by
chance after they had come to
Israel. After 25 years to-
gether, they continue to prize
the cooking of their parents.
Both are superb cooks and
the following dishes were
served during a festive Pass-
over dinner several years ago.
Even though the dinner was
marvelous, I am still not cer-
tain whether it was the
delight of the meal or the
beauty of the three daughters
of the house that charmed me
most.
MARINATED ONIONS
1 lb (450 gr) baby onions
1 /2 cup each dry white
wine and olive oil
12-16 whole peppercorns
juice of 1 large lemon
1 bay leaf, crumbled
1 tsp salt
With a sharp knife, make a
cross on top and bottom of
each onion.
In a saucepan combine the
oil, wine, lemon juice, salt,
peppercorns, bay leaf and i/2
cup of water. Bring to a boil,
reduce the flame and simmer
gently for about 5 minutes.
Add the onions, cover loosely
and cook over a low flame un-
til tender (about 30 minutes).
Remove from the flame and
let cool about 1 /2 hour or
longer before serving with 1/2
cup of the pan fluids.
EGG AND LEMON SOUP
6 cups chicken stock
3-4 tbs lemon juice
3 eggs
salt and white pepper to
taste
matzah balls for serving
(optional)
Bring the stock to a boil.
Cover the saucepan lightly
and simmer gently for 15
minutes.
In a small bowl beat the
eggs until thickened and then
beat in the lemon juice. Slow-
ly add a cup of the hot stock
to the egg mixture, stirring
constantly during the adding.
Stir this mixture slowly into
the remaining stock, and con-
tinue cooking, uncovered, just
below a simmer, beating con-
stantly until the soup is
smooth and somewhat thick-
ened. Do not allow to boil.
Season to taste with salt and
pepper and serve immediate-
ly in pre-warmed soup bowls.
APRICOT STUFFED
LAMB SHOULDER
1 lamb shoulder, about
41/2 lbs (2 kilos),
boned and with a
pocket cut in
3 tbs oil
1 tbs brown sugar
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper,
coarsely ground flour
for dusting
For the stuffing:
1 cup dry apricots
4 matzot, crumbled
1 /4 cup margarine
1 medium onion,
chopped finely
1 egg, lightly beaten
rind of 1/2 lemon, grated
% tsp salt
dash of pepper
For the gravy:
2 tsp matzah-meal, potato
starch or cornstarch
11/2 cups beef stock, at
room temperature
salt and pepper to taste.
Make the stuffing by
crumbling the matzot into a
large bowl. To this add 2 /3 cup
of the liquids in which the
apricots soaked and let stand.
In a skillet melt the
margarine and in this saute
the onion until golden. Add
the seasonings and egg to the
matzot mixture and then add
this to the onions in the pan.
Cook over a low flame, stir-
ring, until the matzot starts
to brown and starts to dry.
Chop the apricots coarsely
Continued on Page 94