The Inn at Phillips Mill, in Pennsylvania, has the flavor of a French country inn. Inn Love: Ten Of The Best B&Bs Honeymooners will find luxury and privacy at these East Coast b ed- and-breakfasts . BY ANNE BENNETT SWINGLE 64 Brides 1990 glowing fire, the smell one snowy day, when it was too mean of woodsmoke, a cup of to ski on Mt. Snow, they looked at spiced tea, the warmth of properties in nearby West Dover with a puffy down comforter on a realtor. By day's end, they were the a four poster — such are the comforts owners of a 190-year-old barn. It was of an oldfashioned inn. Following are a working barn — home to horses and 10 inns along the East Coast, each a cows, not to mention rats, mice and romantic retreat where — after the bats. Undaunted, Rodney, an archi- wedding madness — the two of you tect, and Ione, an interior designer, set to work tearing down the walls and can get away, alone, together. Some are classic bed-and-break- shoring up the beams. Soon, people fasts; others more closely resemble were coming from far and wide to luxury hotels and reflect the current sample the pleasures of what has trend to more elegant lodging. Where come to be known as The Inn At once bed-and-breakfasts were the Sawmill Farm. Sawmill is a 21-room country inn creation of a couple, typically retired, who would rent out spare bedrooms situated on a hillside overlooking the to earn extra income, now these rural village of West Dover. There are hostelries are catering to a more 12 rooms in the main building and 10 luxury-conscious traveler. They have fireplace cottages. Book the cottages, developed into mini-hotels, complete for they are intensely private, perfect with such amenities as jacuzzis, fire- for honeymooners. Throughout the inn, the accent is places, brandy and Godiva chocolates on Victoriana and "country" Ameri- at bedtime. A night's stay at one of these choice cana. The rich, dark walls are hung inns varies widely in price from a with gleaming copper pots, farm modest $60 to a whopping $490 for kitchen implements, and art — 19th a double room without dining. (Unless century portraits, primitives, and land- otherwise stated, all rates are for one scapes. In winter, a fire is always burn- ing in the fireplace; tea is served in night, double occupancy.) late afternoon. "We like to think the inn has a blend of sophistication and The Inn At Sawmill Farm, yet is unpretentious," says Rodney West Dover, Vermont Williams. Rodney and lone Williams had Dinner — in one of three dining been coming to Vermont for years rooms — is a romantic affair complete from their home in New Jersey when `with candlelight and classical music. A