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These posts, the base for the community suk- kah, made me think ahead to Sukkot, the joyful holiday which follows, the somber, thought-provoking Days of Awe. Sukkot is called zeman simhateinu, the season of re- joicing. The most important ritual is eating in a sukkah (some people also sleep in it), a temporary structure made of four walls and a roof. Its flimsiness is to remind us of the huts in the desert where the Israelites wandered for 40 years. The building of a sukkah is a family affair and takes place right after Yom Kippur so that it is ready to be used for the first time on Sukkot Eve. Adults and children gather cornstalks, gourds, cranberries — and anything else they can lay their hands on — to build and decorate. Although carpets and rugs may be used for the walls, the roof must be made of something that has grown and been taken from the ground; evergreen branches and cornstalks are popular since there must be enough covering to ensure more shade than sun but not so much as to prevent the stars being seen. (There's always a willing farmer who allows a carload of cornstalks to be taken from his field.) One of my favorite customs is taken from Sephardic friends. Their most ornate chair (or an ordinary one covered with a tapestry) is set aside in the sukkah for the ushpizin, symbolic guests. These "guests" are Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, Joseph, Moses, Aaron and David — all were wanderers or exiles. One is invited each day to eat in the sukkah, the custom relating to giving shelter and food to the poor. This is a perfect opportunity to also invite those who who have no family at home or don't have a suk- kah of their own. Sukkot also marks the harvest, the final gathering of fresh produce before winter sets in, and this inspires special dishes for the holiday. Whatever is in abundance can be transformed into quick and tasty dishes. I prefer one- dish meals so that there's less to carry from the kitchen to outdoors. And because these dishes are planned around vegetables, they're a good start to the dietary guidelines for healthy Americans. The recipes which follow are all one-dish meals to be eaten in the sukkah. All you need to add are some rolls, fruit for dessert and a beverage of your choice. • This may be made up to two days ahead and refrigerated. SUKKOT POT AU FEU 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 large onions, peeled and sliced 1 medium eggplant, peeled and cut in 11/2 inch dice 2 large tomatoes, cut coarsely 1 apple, unpeeled, cored and cut into 12 wedges 1 /2 cup tomato sauce % cup fresh basil or parsley, coarsely chopped 11/2 teaspoons cumin 1 /4 teaspoon pepper 1 tablespoon sugar or honey 1 pound ground turkey In a large, heavy skillet, heat oil. Add onions and cook for 2 minutes over low heat. Do not brown. Add eggplant, tomatoes, apple, tomato sauce, basil, cumin, pepper and sugar. Cover and cook over low heat for 5 minutes. With wet hands, roll ground turkey into small balls about 11/2 inches in diameter. Ar- range on top of vegetable mix- ture in skillet, cover and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes. Stir gently and con- tinue cooking covered for 20 minutes longer or until turkey balls are cooked. Serves 4 to 6.